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140                     AN EXILE OF THE MIND                                                                    MAGGIE, THE FLOWER CHILD                        141






























                   Our landlord would leave wildflowers on the doorstep.                                     Women transporting goods along the waterfront on Paros.


          white-washed bright in sharp contrast  cards  printed  from  a  wood  block                    A classical Greek beauty, the bak-  returned to  London and I visited
          against a sky swept brightly blue,  carved with a razorblade and sent                       er’s daughter, sold her family’s wares  Athens and met two French Canadi-
          stood proudly on stone pavements.  them out to friends far and wide to                      in the bakery where she was pursued  an girls and an Australian in a camp-
          Ancient Greek ruins were sparse on  celebrate Christmas cheer with us.                      by an infatuated Bernie. He had to  ervan. They had seen nothing of the
          the island but a medieval castle lay half  Bernie, from student days, was living            make a hasty retreat when the girl’s  islands and were about to return to
          submerged at the seafront. An ancient  in Paris and was our only visitor.                   fiancé  became  suspicious  about  the  London. I persuaded them to visit
          mine  inland  had  once  provided  fine   Hobnail  boots  flashed  sparks                   large amount  of bread  Bernie  was  Paros and rented a farmhouse over-
          Parian marble used by Praxiteles and  across a stone-flagged patio to Greek                 buying.                              looking the harbour for $10 a month.
          other ancient Greek sculptors.       music as we danced Zorba style and                        On a morning walk on the hillside    Its walls,  40 centimetres  thick,
            I witnessed  a  sarcophagus, an-   drank  mavrodaphne wine  made                          behind us Bernie found a life-sized  stood solid beneath a bamboo ceiling
          ciently  inscripted, unearthed  at a  from black grapes stomped by local                    hand of ancient marble holding a  supported by rough wooden beams.
          building site down the road. It was  monks in the monastic tradition.                       ball, exposed  by the  recent heavy  Each morning the landlord left wild-
          quickly covered with concrete. Con-     These vintners went about their                     rain. It was a Christmas present un-  flowers in a jam jar on the doorstep.
          struction of the new building would  business on the island conspicuous                     expected and a paper weight to keep     I bought the campervan from the
          have been  delayed  for years  by a  by their purple-stained feet. A chick-                 his research notes from flying out of  Australian and  Nicole,  one  of  the
          mountain of red tape in Athens.      en that drowned itself in the sea for                  his Parisian window.                 French Canadians, decided to travel
            As the festive season drew close  reasons unknown was  destined  to                          After several months on  Paros,  with me to new  adventures  across
          we made ‘Christmas Conversazione’  become our Christmas dinner.                             Russell and I left the island. Russell  the regions of Europe.
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