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166  AN EXILE OF THE MIND          BROMIDE IN MY TEA                           167




                              Bromide in my tea




                           Hitch-hiking across the outback. In search of
                          Yamamoto’s aircraft. Free rides at Disneyland.
                             Kentucky fried maggots. Life is a beach.


                    he Nullarbor Plains unfolded flat and treeless over a khaki-
                Tcoloured  landscape  for almost  1700 kilometres. We  hitch-
                hiked from Fremantle under a desert sun, through the stamping
                ground of thousands of camels let loose after the completion of the
                railroad during the First World War.
                   We reached  Sydney  4350 kilometres  later where  my  brother
                lived.  My  sister-in-law  had  hastily  prepared  separate  bedrooms
                for us. Nicole and I had travelled together for the last six months,
                living in a Greek farmhouse, a cosy campervan and a very small
                tent. On hearing this, my sister-in-law then set about visiting the
                local vicar to arrange instant matrimony.
                   Newly  married, I  departed for the island of  Bougainville in
                New Guinea to accept a job which no one else wanted. It was well-
                paid and Nicole planned to follow me there a few weeks later for a
                belated honeymoon.
                   The town of Kieta is perched on a narrow ribbon of land skirting a
                picturesque harbour. A warm breeze wafted in a musky sweet smell
                of copra pushing up from brown hemp sacks stacked along the shore.
                   My first introduction to this wild island was to see several bodies
                sprawled over the road from a truck recently crashed. It was ear-
                lier seen weaving from side to side on the dirt road. Its occupants
                roaring drunk on South Pacific lager warmed up in the hot sun to
                make it more potent. Crows were strung out like abacus beads on


                 The island of Bougainville, Papua New Guinea.
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