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166                     AN EXILE OF THE MIND                                                                         BROMIDE IN MY TEA                          167




                                                                                                                         Bromide in my tea




                                                                                                                      Hitch-hiking across the outback. In search of
                                                                                                                     Yamamoto’s aircraft. Free rides at Disneyland.
                                                                                                                        Kentucky fried maggots. Life is a beach.


                                                                                                               he Nullarbor Plains unfolded flat and treeless over a khaki-
                                                                                                           Tcoloured  landscape  for almost  1700 kilometres. We  hitch-
                                                                                                           hiked from Fremantle under a desert sun, through the stamping
                                                                                                           ground of thousands of camels let loose after the completion of the
                                                                                                           railroad during the First World War.
                                                                                                              We reached  Sydney  4350 kilometres  later where  my  brother
                                                                                                           lived.  My  sister-in-law  had  hastily  prepared  separate  bedrooms
                                                                                                           for us. Nicole and I had travelled together for the last six months,
                                                                                                           living in a Greek farmhouse, a cosy campervan and a very small
                                                                                                           tent. On hearing this, my sister-in-law then set about visiting the
                                                                                                           local vicar to arrange instant matrimony.
                                                                                                              Newly  married, I  departed for the island of  Bougainville in
                                                                                                           New Guinea to accept a job which no one else wanted. It was well-
                                                                                                           paid and Nicole planned to follow me there a few weeks later for a
                                                                                                           belated honeymoon.
                                                                                                              The town of Kieta is perched on a narrow ribbon of land skirting a
                                                                                                           picturesque harbour. A warm breeze wafted in a musky sweet smell
                                                                                                           of copra pushing up from brown hemp sacks stacked along the shore.
                                                                                                              My first introduction to this wild island was to see several bodies
                                                                                                           sprawled over the road from a truck recently crashed. It was ear-
                                                                                                           lier seen weaving from side to side on the dirt road. Its occupants
                                                                                                           roaring drunk on South Pacific lager warmed up in the hot sun to
                                                                                                           make it more potent. Crows were strung out like abacus beads on


                                                                                                           The island of Bougainville, Papua New Guinea.
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