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160  AN EXILE OF THE MIND           THE HIPPIE TRAIL                           161






























 Nicole waking up on the rooftop of a New Delhi hotel.  Bicycle power in Varanasi, India.


           resting between rails in the passing  with  long  sticks  along  lantern-lit
           black night. Their generosity  was  tracks into the night. Within an
           very touching from people impover-   hour they jabbered in  excitement
           ished. I had taken such good care to  and pointed  skywards in  blessing,
           conceal our wealth beneath a shirt  handing me the  wallet  intact  and
           from shifty eyes and nimble fingers.  unsoiled. They refused  a reward,
           And now it had been devoured by an  saying it was an honour to witness
           Indian toilet.                       this miracle.
              Nicole  continued  eastwards  on     Rejoining Nicole in Varanasi we
           the  train to  Varanasi  and I went  shared a bus with more chickens up
           westwards on a military train after  a narrow incline  to  Kathmandu. A
           I explained  my dilemma. Calculat-   view breathlessly admired of verdant
           ing the speed and the  time when  mountains and deep gullies.  Fre-
           the wallet would have hit the tracks  quent rock falls over the road were
           gave some indication of its position.  cleared willingly by the passengers
           From a dimly  lit  station, the  clos-  on the bus.
           est to where it could have fallen, I    After a breakfast of stale corn-
 Finding a seat on an Indian train was a challenge.  walked between two guards armed  flakes  we  eagerly  looked  for  the
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