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160                     AN EXILE OF THE MIND                                                                          THE HIPPIE TRAIL                          161






























                   Nicole waking up on the rooftop of a New Delhi hotel.                                                 Bicycle power in Varanasi, India.


                                                                                                      resting between rails in the passing  with  long  sticks  along  lantern-lit
                                                                                                      black night. Their generosity  was  tracks into the night. Within an
                                                                                                      very touching from people impover-   hour they jabbered in  excitement
                                                                                                      ished. I had taken such good care to  and pointed  skywards in  blessing,
                                                                                                      conceal our wealth beneath a shirt  handing me the  wallet  intact  and
                                                                                                      from shifty eyes and nimble fingers.  unsoiled. They refused  a reward,
                                                                                                      And now it had been devoured by an  saying it was an honour to witness
                                                                                                      Indian toilet.                       this miracle.
                                                                                                         Nicole  continued  eastwards  on     Rejoining Nicole in Varanasi we
                                                                                                      the  train to  Varanasi  and I went  shared a bus with more chickens up
                                                                                                      westwards on a military train after  a narrow incline  to  Kathmandu. A
                                                                                                      I explained  my dilemma. Calculat-   view breathlessly admired of verdant
                                                                                                      ing the speed and the  time when  mountains and deep gullies.  Fre-
                                                                                                      the wallet would have hit the tracks  quent rock falls over the road were
                                                                                                      gave some indication of its position.  cleared willingly by the passengers
                                                                                                      From a dimly  lit  station, the  clos-  on the bus.
                                                                                                      est to where it could have fallen, I    After a breakfast of stale corn-
                     Finding a seat on an Indian train was a challenge.                               walked between two guards armed  flakes  we  eagerly  looked  for  the
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