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154  AN EXILE OF THE MIND           THE HIPPIE TRAIL                           155


























 The legendary Hippie Trail dwindled out with unrest in the East.  A street market on the Kabul River.


 amiable bear of a man as wide  as   We  set  our  watches  by  the  old   bleak  shadow  of  Mount  Ararat.  refused to work with women aboard
 an ox across the  shoulders,  had  a  Salzburg Glockenspiel clock, playing   Some of us slept on the bus which  and matters were made worse when
 balding head and a long black beard  out its melodies since 1704, and   was  cleaner  and more comfortable  they exposed pink knees in public to
 that  dusted  the  steering  wheel.  made a point of  not stopping in   than the local hostelry. A mechanic  indignant Turks.
 His front teeth, knocked out by an  Zagreb which I visited by accident   Threatened by villagers throwing
 Iranian  brick on a previous  trip,  on my last trip.  Sofia  in  Bulgaria   stones, the girls hid their offending
 was a little  misunderstanding, he  was of more interest with enough   limbs within the  modesty  of their
 grinned.  Not an  encouraging sight  architecture from the fourth century   jeans.  Kev’s remaining teeth  were
 for the long journey ahead.   to fill several art books.  now seriously at risk from the angry
 In  Munich  we  visited  the  Hof-  Over three  thousand  kilometres   mob,  and the situation came to a
 brauhaus Beer Hall where buxom  were  covered  on reaching  Istanbul   head the next morning when a bullet
 barmaids  carried  fistfuls  of  steins.  and the bus still motored along. We   shattered the windscreen of our bus
 Beer frothed as strong as wine and  visited  the  Pudding  Shop  near the   in  warning.  To  our relief another
 not a drop did they spill. I staggered  Blue Mosque, with its bulletin board   overland bus came to the rescue and
 out into crisp Teutonic air to clear  plastered with love letters to fellow   Nicole and I, with our brazen girls,
 my head and suddenly felt the cold  travellers earlier smooched en route.  continued our journey.
 chill of a pavement through the coat   Our bus  didn’t motor for long.   In Iran, overhead fans whirled
 on  my  back. Lamp  posts  swung  After bouncing from one pothole to   years of dust into our Persian stew at
 crazily under a sky about to drizzle  another along narrow and hazardous   a restaurant. Blatantly overcharged,
 out its rain on my head.   roads, it rattled to a halt under the   Nicole telling off locals in Turkey.  we  refused  to  pay  and  the  staff
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