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154                     AN EXILE OF THE MIND                                                                          THE HIPPIE TRAIL                          155


























              The legendary Hippie Trail dwindled out with unrest in the East.                                           A street market on the Kabul River.


          amiable bear of a man as wide  as       We  set  our  watches  by  the  old                 bleak  shadow  of  Mount  Ararat.  refused to work with women aboard
          an ox across the  shoulders,  had  a  Salzburg Glockenspiel clock, playing                  Some of us slept on the bus which  and matters were made worse when
          balding head and a long black beard  out its melodies since 1704, and                       was  cleaner  and more comfortable  they exposed pink knees in public to
          that  dusted  the  steering  wheel.  made a point of  not stopping in                       than the local hostelry. A mechanic  indignant Turks.
          His front teeth, knocked out by an  Zagreb which I visited by accident                                                              Threatened by villagers throwing
          Iranian  brick on a previous  trip,  on my last trip.  Sofia  in  Bulgaria                                                       stones, the girls hid their offending
          was a little  misunderstanding, he  was of more interest with enough                                                             limbs within the  modesty  of their
          grinned.  Not an  encouraging sight  architecture from the fourth century                                                        jeans.  Kev’s remaining teeth  were
          for the long journey ahead.          to fill several art books.                                                                  now seriously at risk from the angry
            In  Munich  we  visited  the  Hof-    Over three  thousand  kilometres                                                         mob,  and the situation came to a
          brauhaus Beer Hall where buxom  were  covered  on reaching  Istanbul                                                             head the next morning when a bullet
          barmaids  carried  fistfuls  of  steins.  and the bus still motored along. We                                                    shattered the windscreen of our bus
          Beer frothed as strong as wine and  visited  the  Pudding  Shop  near the                                                        in  warning.  To  our relief another
          not a drop did they spill. I staggered  Blue Mosque, with its bulletin board                                                     overland bus came to the rescue and
          out into crisp Teutonic air to clear  plastered with love letters to fellow                                                      Nicole and I, with our brazen girls,
          my head and suddenly felt the cold  travellers earlier smooched en route.                                                        continued our journey.
          chill of a pavement through the coat    Our bus  didn’t motor for long.                                                             In Iran, overhead fans whirled
          on  my  back. Lamp  posts  swung  After bouncing from one pothole to                                                             years of dust into our Persian stew at
          crazily under a sky about to drizzle  another along narrow and hazardous                                                         a restaurant. Blatantly overcharged,
          out its rain on my head.             roads, it rattled to a halt under the                   Nicole telling off locals in Turkey.  we  refused  to  pay  and  the  staff
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