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150                     AN EXILE OF THE MIND                                                                      CHEAP WINE AND PAELLA                          151


                                                                                                      court that day, Nicole, in her Québécois
                                                                                                      French, pleaded poverty to the judge
                                                                                                      to no avail, and the last of our money
                                                                                                      was spent on a new tyre and a fine.
                                                                                                         We arrived in  Calais and not a
                                                                                                      cent between us for the crossing to
                                                                                                      Dover. Unused pounds sterling were
                                                                                                      kindly donated to us by a busload of
                                                                                                      German  tourists returning from a
                                                                                                      London trip. It was enough for the
                                                                                                      ferry and a decent meal.
                                                                                                         As we  arrived  in  London,  black
                                                                                                      smoke erupted  from the  camper’s
                                                                                                      rear in deafening  blasts. We had
                                                                                                      miraculously  motored  11,000 kilo-
                                                                                                      metres without breaking down.
                                                                                                         The  camper was cheaply sold to
                         Azenhas Do Mar on the coast of Portugal.                                     another traveller and we found work    1969 poster of the rock musical.
                                                                                                      and a place to live. Nicole as a French
          above and we felt  the chill rain  to bark at straying sheep skittering                     translator in the ‘Square Mile’, and I  extra for the Peter Sellers’ movie, The
          flooding in where the roof had been.  down stone-flagged lanes.                             in Soho with my nose amidst books  Magic  Christian. He told us about
          The pop-up rooftop had blown clean      In the  devout  town  of  Fátima,                   at the British National Bibliography.  actors  flubbing  lines  deliberately  in
          off  to  sail  over  a  Spanish  hedge  the site of Catholic miracles, pious                   Scented oak panelled the walls  this  black  humour  comedy  to  ogle
          and  bellyflopped  in  a  field,  intact.   worshippers crawled to the                      and sprays of roses pushed through  88 galley slave girls, naked from the
          Luckily we were able to put                    chapel on bloodied knees                     the plaster on ornate ceilings in the  waist up. And Nicole and I to ogle the
          it back before the camper                       for sins committed, past                    nine-room apartment we rented on  cast of the rock musical, Hair, naked
          filled with water.                              and  present, and per-                      Kensington High Street. A shared  from the waist up and down at the
            In an exotic  cobble-                         haps to collect a key for                   luxury with ten others of cosmopolitan  Shaftsbury Theatre.  Paul Nicholas
          stoned  village in the                          the Pearly Gates.                           mix. We took the Virgin’s Wing with  jumped from the stage onto the lap
          hinterland of bewitching  Portugal,     With funds fast dwindling we left                   its racks of servants’ bells no longer  of a mortified Nicole who could only
          a symphony of bells jingled on the  Portugal and sped across  Spain and                     clamouring on their curled springs  squeak, “Ooh la la.”
          woolly  necks of  sheep  scampering  France into  Switzerland where one                     for  sweet  tea,  scones  and  finger   And far away in the  night sky,
          alongside  shepherds  wielding  long  of our tyres, worn to the metal, was                  sandwiches for ‘above stairs’.       Neil Armstrong had just left  his
          wooden  staffs.  A  sheepdog  rushed  spotted by a policeman as we slept. In                   One of our flatmates worked as an  footprint on the moon.
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