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22                      AN EXILE OF THE MIND                                                                     CASTING OFF WITH A BANG                         23








































                  A hair-raising flight into the infamous Kai Tak airport.                            Le  Voyageur was ready and then  and  sampans  lashed  together  in a
                                                                                                      motored to her berth at the Aberdeen  Brobdingnagian raft.
          notorious airport of Kai Tak.        to  the  movie,  The  World  of Suzie                  Boat Club. The clangour of the city     I found  some  work helping  an
            We  clutched, white-knuckled,  Wong. Much of it was under noisy                           was left for the bedlam of the Tanka  Australian mechanic resurrect salt-
          the  armrests for a close-up  view  construction  and bursting  at the                      people’s  floating  village,  sardine-  damaged outboard motors from
          of  housewives  cooking noodles  in  seams with refugees from the south.                    tossed in their garbage-strewn bay.   a sea-dunked container.  Ignorant
          their apartment blocks. A dramatic     It had the familiar English imprint                     Generations  of Tankas  had  of  the  island’s  dangers, I was  sent
          experience  for passengers  and a  of double-decker buses and Brits                         never set  foot on dry land for fear  to a far off bay to fetch his dinghy
          nightmare  for  pilots.  Years  later  a  sporting bowler hats and swinging                 of landsickness. Rotting vegetables  powered by a small outboard.
          China Airlines Boeing 747 overshot  their umbrellas along  Connaught                        and  drowned  rats  floated  past       Nigel  was genuinely  astonished
          the  runway and ended  up cruising  Road  in  the  financial  sector.  They                 Le  Voyageur’s anchorage twice  to  see  me  roar into view  intact.
          down the harbour. This inspired the  nervously watched a plummeting                         a day on the tide  without  fail. As  Steering amidst rocks in a churning
          authorities  to build  a new  airport  stock market with news of Chairman                   compensation,  fish  ball  noodles  sea, the  light  boat  was  near to
          out of town.                         Mao’s death soon after we arrived.                     wafted on the breeze from a thous-   capsizing several times. He believed
            Hong Kong bore no resemblance        We stayed  at the  YMCA  until                       and cooking pots  aboard  junks  I was a skilled sea dog because of my
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