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22  AN EXILE OF THE MIND        CASTING OFF WITH A BANG                         23








































 A hair-raising flight into the infamous Kai Tak airport.   Le  Voyageur was ready and then  and  sampans  lashed  together  in a
           motored to her berth at the Aberdeen  Brobdingnagian raft.
 notorious airport of Kai Tak.   to  the  movie,  The  World  of Suzie   Boat Club. The clangour of the city   I found  some  work helping  an
 We  clutched, white-knuckled,  Wong. Much of it was under noisy   was left for the bedlam of the Tanka  Australian mechanic resurrect salt-
 the  armrests for a close-up  view  construction  and bursting  at the   people’s  floating  village,  sardine-  damaged outboard motors from
 of  housewives  cooking noodles  in  seams with refugees from the south.   tossed in their garbage-strewn bay.   a sea-dunked container.  Ignorant
 their apartment blocks. A dramatic   It had the familiar English imprint   Generations  of Tankas  had  of  the  island’s  dangers, I was  sent
 experience  for passengers  and a  of double-decker buses and Brits   never set  foot on dry land for fear  to a far off bay to fetch his dinghy
 nightmare  for  pilots.  Years  later  a  sporting bowler hats and swinging   of landsickness. Rotting vegetables  powered by a small outboard.
 China Airlines Boeing 747 overshot  their umbrellas along  Connaught   and  drowned  rats  floated  past   Nigel  was genuinely  astonished
 the  runway and ended  up cruising  Road  in  the  financial  sector.  They   Le  Voyageur’s anchorage twice  to  see  me  roar into view  intact.
 down the harbour. This inspired the  nervously watched a plummeting   a day on the tide  without  fail. As  Steering amidst rocks in a churning
 authorities  to build  a new  airport  stock market with news of Chairman   compensation,  fish  ball  noodles  sea, the  light  boat  was  near to
 out of town.  Mao’s death soon after we arrived.  wafted on the breeze from a thous-  capsizing several times. He believed
 Hong Kong bore no resemblance   We stayed  at the  YMCA  until   and cooking pots  aboard  junks  I was a skilled sea dog because of my
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