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84                      AN EXILE OF THE MIND                                                                       TIDDLERS IN A JAM JAR                         85


          or shine, sleet or snow. It was a
          national pastime and an opportunity
          to catch up on the ill wind of local
          gossip. Their treasure then lugged
          homewards with no refrigerator to
          preserve  it for a hungry day. This
          rite of passage  was repeated  for
          years to come during rationing.
            The clackety-clack of a horse and
          cart delivering milk could be heard
          streets  away.  Manure  steamed  in
          piles  in the cart’s  wake to fertilise
          cabbages  and  cauliflowers  in  back
          gardens. I was  often  sent out  into
          the street with a bucket and shovel
          in a mad scramble with neighbours
          to scoop up the precious poo.         The Royal wedding cake in 1947.                           Children queuing outside a shop as sweets rationing ends in 1953.
            Old clothes were never discarded
          but darned,  patched  and repaired.     But  the  ration-bleak  years  had                     Junk food was not yet invented.  pavements. A torchbearer to  cheer
          Everything was old or broken with  their upside with protein and vita-                      An energetic devotion to gardening  up the neighbourhood after the long
          little hope of being replaced.       mins for the poor and less flab food                   produced vegetables by the cartload.  bleak hours of blackout.
            It  was  an  offence  to  feed  an  for  the  affluent  unless  hustled  on               A dietician’s dream half a century      VE Day,  Victory  in Europe,
          animal food that could be eaten by  the black market.                                       later. Horsemeat, dried  eggs  and  marked not the end of a bad dream,
          humans. Our elderly violin-playing      However, austerity  was  over-                      the ‘national loaf’, a tasteless slab of  but the beginning of a new nightmare
          neighbour  was  fined  for  feeding  looked  for the  Royal wedding  in                     wheatmeal, made up the fare until  as rituals of recrimination unravelled
          birds in his garden with bread long  1947 when a four-tiered  cake,                         Americans introduced  something  across Europe. With food shortages
          since stale which his teeth couldn’t  three  metres  high  and weighing                     called spam.                         everywhere,  respectable  shopping
          chew.  Hundreds  of  thousands  of  225 kilograms, materialized  from                          War’s end saw the flicker of gas  and gossiping housewives in Naples
          cats and dogs were sacrificed on the  the royal kitchens. Dressed in their                  lamps illuminated in  darkened  lined up to sell themselves to young
          false assumption that putting down  finery, the 2,000-plus guests turned                    streets,  casting  a greenish  halo  American  GIs for tins of food. In
          the  family  pet  was  a patriotic  and  up for this lavish bash in a ‘ration-              within their faint circles. The  contrast,  high-spirited  neighbours
          humane thing to do. Only to discover  free’ zone. Prince Philip had not one                 lamplighter  carried  a  flame  atop  sat at garland-bunted tables on our
          later a population explosion of rats  but  two stag parties  where booze                    a long pole, leaving a string of  cobbled street, rationed but joyous.
          and mice.                            flowed freely.                                         lighted  lanterns as he padded  the     A few  months  later, my  father,
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