Page 32 - Australian Wood Review №103 2019

PROJECT

9. Profiling the
cabinet top and
bottom edges
with a trimmer.
10. Showing the
cabinet carcase
glued and
clamped.
11. Wood for the
cabinet was
bandsawn, then
bookmatched
and glued.

12. Tape secures
10 the glue joins
for the back.

When the panel was dry, I removed the masking tape
and thicknessed down to 5mm, then sanded the back
and front faces once again working through 120, 180
9
and 240 grits.

Door joinery

For this cabinet, slip joins cut on the tablesaw with a tenon
jig were used to make the door frame (photo 13). Once
again I recommend cutting and dry fitting some test pieces

before diving into the timber you spent so much time
carefully selecting and machining up. This helps to eliminate
any potential issues without the stress of glue being involved.

Titebond III was also used to glue up the door frame and
once again I had clamps, glue and a wet rag on standby.
And again, I checked and double checked for square. I
like to recheck for square after clean up, just in case I have
unintentionally knocked my project out of square when

removing squeeze out.

Cutting and fitting the shelf

I took measurements from both the front and back of the

11 cabinet just in case there was any variation. A piece of solid
timber was cut for a not-too-tight fit before machining
down to 15mm thickness.

Placement of the shelf took into account bottle heights and

brass shelf mounts were fitted into the sides 15mm in from
both the front and back of the cabinet depth to carry the
load of the whiskey glasses.

Wall mounting

For the mounting piece I measured the internal width and
then cut and machined a piece of solid timber to a snug fit
(photo 14). The back edge was rebated to house the back
12 panel later on (photo 15). Ct’d p.34

32 Australian Wood Review