Page 35 - Australian Wood Review №103 2019

PROJECT

19. The glass is held in place with beading that is held in
Both faces were sanded, then clamped and glued to the
with tacks but no glue. The scraper under the hammer
carcase. For strength, I drilled and tapped in two Japanese protects the glass when tapping in the tacks.
tapered nails to each end. These were cleaned up with a flush 20. Marking out the mortises for the hinges.
cut saw (photo 16). I find the nails give a nice aesthetic too. A trimmer was used to clear the waste.
21. The completed cabinet, ready for wall mounting and
for stocking with your favourite tipple.
Carefully, I created a 5mm rebate to the back of the cabinet
frame, stopping shy of where the wall mount was added.
This was squared up by hand using a mallet and sharp chisel.
Measuring the rebate width and length I then cut the back
panel to size, testing the fit and making any adjustments
where needed before gluing the panel in (photo 17).

Completing the door

After unclamping, I used an orbital sander to clean up the
faces and edges of the door front. Testing that the door

fitted well to the cabinet, I selected the back face of the
door to make a 10mm rebate for insetting the glass. Again,
a mallet and sharp chisel were used to square the corners of
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the rebate before checking the fit of the glass (photo 18).

Beading is used to hold the glass in place. Instead of glue, small

tacks are used to pin the beading in place. If the glass is ever
damaged, the beading can then be easily removed and replaced.

As a pre-caution I pre-drilled for the tacks into the beading using

a pin that I had snipped the head off to create a chisel point.
I drilled at a slight angle to help pinch the beading in place.

The tacks were then tapped in flush with the beading.
A cabinet scraper was placed underneath to protect
20
the glass (photo 19).

Finishing off

With the hinges selected, mortises were marked (photo

20) and the trimmer used to clear the waste. Three holes
for wall mounting were drilled and countersunk into the
back mounting piece of the cabinet. Finally I gave the
cabinet a wax finish taking care to mask off the glass with
tape so it wouldn’t smear.

All that remains is to find a special place to mount your
newly made whiskey cabinet…and of course don’t forget
to stock it up too (photo 21).

Photos: David Howlett

This whiskey cabinet is one of the projects you can undertake at
Perth Wood School under the tutelage of Cat Cook and David
Howlett. Learn more at www.perthwoodschool.com.au

Cat Cook is a designer/maker living in Perth, Western Australia with

a background in Creative Industries (Visual Art and Photomedia) as
well as an Advanced Diploma in Industrial Design. She works full
time with David Howlett at the Perth Wood School assisting in both the 21
running of courses and workshops as well as various commission jobs
and also helping students build their own projects.

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