Page 71 - Australian Wood Review №103 2019

WOODTURNING

5. Splitting the log into
quarters with some help
from a branch mallet.
6. Using the axe to sever
the fibres.
7. Splitting is the most
efficient way to reduce
the blank in size.

8. Axing the blank into a rough
cylinder. Depth cuts help
remove a uniform amount
of wood along one face.

4

Getting started

First, obviously, you need a pole

lathe. This is an easy weekend project
that comprises two A-frames joined
by parallel planks (the lathe bed), in
which poppets (head and tailstocks)

are inserted (photos: main, 1, 2).
5 6

The poppets are made from a dense
hardwood, with threaded rod or
coach bolts sharpened and screwed

into place to form two dead centres.
If you’re handy with a welder you can
weld on a crank (photo 3) to screw
one of the centres into the blank, or

just whack it into place with a club
hewn from a branch and wedge the
poppet in place.

And then onto the pole or poles.

Traditionally, the pole would have 7
faced the bodger. It would be
attached and raised at its base about
six metres away, and with the cord

tied to the other end about a metre
above your head. A young tree is
perfect for this as it will still have flex
to provide the necessary spring.

Now the pole lathe I use is fancy. It
comes with about the only modern
feature to be added to this particular
pole lathe design in the last few

hundred years. Instead of the one
pole stretching out in front, it has two
shorter poles (about 2.5–3 metres)
attached vertically to each of the
8
A-frames.

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