Page 54 - 2003 SVALBARD, NORWAY

north. Then we would turn south again and search for the pack ice

to find more polar bears for viewing. So we went to bed not
knowing if we would sleep the night through or be called for more

sightings.

Land of the Midnight Sun

Around 1:10 AM, we got our answer when Ralph’s cheery voice
greeted us on the intercom with a good morning briefing about a
polar bear in front of the ship. We hurriedly dressed and rushed

up on deck (Kay made it up there about 5 minutes before Lois
could get it together). It was 32 degrees and a thin rain was falling,

but since there is no night viewing the surreal scene was easy. The
bear was just waddling along, spraddle-legged on the ice, with no

apparent purpose. The polar bear gait is typical since they all
seem to demonstrate the same awkward-looking forward motion

with lots of side to side balancing, no doubt to keep from breaking
through the rotten ice. They also characteristically periodically and
regularly turn their heads to either side, lift their snouts and sniff

the air. The whole choreography of their “procession” across the
ice appears to be inherent to the species. When we were

sufficiently frozen from our outside gazing, we went back to the
cabin to go to sleep again.

Lois never did get back to slumberland and was completely awake

when Ralph next alerted us to another bear about 3 AM. He said
this appeared to be a young bear who might exhibit some
curiosity about us and stay around a bit longer. So once again, we

struggled up and back into our full gear since he reported that real
rain was falling this time along with the continued cold. Once

more, Kay made it up on deck first and, when Lois joined her a
couple of minutes later, told her that this bear was on his way

away from the ship too. The only behavior he had exhibited other
than ambling across the ice was to lie down at one point, roll on