Page 71 - 2003 SVALBARD, NORWAY
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After we had passed the ice cap, we came upon a strange sandy

                   brown low shoreline (John S. told us it was “shale”) that suddenly
                   transported  us  into  a  desert  scene,  except  that  this  desert

                   culminated at the Arctic Ocean shore with bergs and pack ice at
                   the  tide  line.  A  very  strange  desert  indeed.  The  clouds  played

                   charades above the ice and water sculptures, changing shapes and
                   colors  as  rapidly  as  a  kaleidoscope.  All  the  while,  the  various
                   beauty of the Arctic world was imprinting our memories indelibly.


                                                 Another Bear Sighting
                   Dinner came and  we had  still seen  no  more bears. However, as

                   dinner  was  ending,  we  were  told  that  three  bears  had  been
                   spotted  on  the  ice  pack  and  that  we  were  maneuvering  into  a

                   better  position  for  viewing.  We  were  in  the  west  part  of
                   Eriksenstreten  (Ericson  Strait)  in  the  pack  ice  at  this  time.  This

                   occurred about 8:30 PM and by now the light pouring down on
                   the timeless scene was molten gold, tipping the edges of the ice
                   formations  with  honeyed  hues.  From  far  across  the  floe  at  the

                   ship’s  bow,  we  saw  a  mother  bear  and  her  two-year  cub
                   approaching nearer and  nearer. Of  course, we were holding our

                   breaths  willing them to continue their slow and  ponderous way
                   across the pack ice. The cub followed closely behind his mother,

                   though at one breath-holding period, he seemed to lead her- in
                   the  direction  we  were  all  hoping  for--ever  closer  to  the  ship.

                   However, she soon regained control and kept him behind her.

                   From then on, they moved only a little closer to the ship though

                   they  continued  to  cross  in  front  of  us.  These  bears  were  the
                   whitest ones we had seen yet and with the binoculars they were

                   clearly observable. All augmented eyes were trained on these two
                   creatures.  Most  of  us  never  saw  the  third  bear  who  had  been

                   mentioned  in  the  announcement  at  dinner.  The  interactions
                   between mother and cub were fascinating to watch because they
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