Page 22 - BHUTAN 2007

Perhaps, the Chief Abbot was blessed with a successful recovery. However,
of course, we would never know the actual outcome, but we preferred to

believe that version of the experience.

The other really wondrous experience occurred in the evening at the Jakar

Dzong. Just by a fluke, we walked up to the dzong as the evening was

coming on. In the large central courtyard of the monastery half, we saw

some monks milling about, laughing and talking quietly. Then we saw the
temple bells and the drums being brought out into the courtyard as the

three groups of monks began to look on expectantly. The monks were

arranged in different ages: young children, teens, and young adults up into

their 30s perhaps. We realized that something unannounced was about to

occur. Kelzang quickly ascertained that we had happened upon a rehearsal
for an important religious festival that would take place in about three

weeks. First, the youngest monks performed their dances to the

accompaniment of the bells and drums. They were charming in their

intensity and determination to get the steps correct. Occasionally, we could

see one young fellow with an extra something in his performance, an agility
or grace beyond that of the others. Then teenagers emerged from the

dormitory and began their practice session. Of course, they were more

polished than the children, but again there was a discernible difference in

talent and enthusiasm among the youngsters. At last, the young adults were

in the courtyard and then magic happened. They were swirling and
posturing and performing the most complicated foot and hand movements

and positions. Their faces were transformed with the joy of dancing and the

fervor of their faith. The dissonant musical accompaniment grew louder and

more frenzied but the young monks kept pace and never lost their artistry.

It was a truly moving experience to watch these devout men practice the

time-honored dances with such elegance, ardor and accomplishment.