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CHAPTER VII: FIRST
IMPRESSIONS
e followed an Alpine path for some four miles, now
Whundreds of feet above a brawling stream which de-
scended from the glaciers, and now nearly alongside it. The
morning was cold and somewhat foggy, for the autumn had
made great strides latterly. Sometimes we went through for-
ests of pine, or rather yew trees, though they looked like pine;
and I remember that now and again we passed a little way-
side shrine, wherein there would be a statue of great beauty,
representing some figure, male or female, in the very hey-
day of youth, strength, and beauty, or of the most dignified
maturity and old age. My hosts always bowed their heads as
they passed one of these shrines, and it shocked me to see
statues that had no apparent object, beyond the chronicling
of some unusual individual excellence or beauty, receive
so serious a homage. However, I showed no sign of wonder
or disapproval; for I remembered that to be all things to
all men was one of the injunctions of the Gentile Apostle,
which for the present I should do well to heed. Shortly af-
ter passing one of these chapels we came suddenly upon a
village which started up out of the mist; and I was alarmed
lest I should be made an object of curiosity or dislike. But it
was not so. My guides spoke to many in passing, and those