Page 353 - J. C. Turner "History and Science of Knots"

CHAPTER 16

A HISTORY OF LACE

Europa Chang

Preliminary Remarks

Lace, by its very nature, can be made sucessfully only with thread spun
from long fibres. Moreover, lacemaking is a labour-intensive craft: from the
spinning of the fine thread to the finishing of loose ends each stage involves
its special skill. Thus, our knowledge of the history of lace comes mainly from
accounts, sumptuary laws, early pattern-books, drawings and such pieces as
have survived the destructive effects of moth, laundering, sunlight and general
use. This chapter on lace, therefore, does not pretend to be a comprehensive
account, but tells only of such lace as was made in quantities large enough to
have left some record of its production. In effect, this limits the topic to a
history of commercially successful lace.
In the Egypt of the Pharoahs, paintings on the walls of tombs show im-
portant folk wearing dresses of sheer gauzes. Excavations have revealed that
these sheer fabrics were made by the technique known as Sprang with bands
of tabby (basket) weave in between to hold the spacing of the lattices. Ancient
Coptic textiles have also been discovered showing similar Leno weaves (both
having been labelled `Babylonian' weave!) Although, strictly speaking, there
are reasons for not counting these as lace, such weaves still demonstrate a stage
in the evolution of lacemaking. Incidentally, these also give some indication of
the degree of sophistication of the ancient civilisations.
Lace as we understand it today may be loosely grouped into the following
categories:

(I) Needle-point (also known as needle lace, and not to be
confused with canvas work-which is a form of counted
thread embroidery);

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