Page 140 - Knots You Need to Know Easy-to-Follow Guide to the 30 Most Useful Knots

4. In belaying a line to a jam cleat, first lead the line under the open horn,

then inside the sharp V of the jam. Pull the line firmly toward you so that it
wedges securely between the horn and the base. While jam cleats are
fast and easy to use, they tend to chafe a line and thus may tend to
shorten its life.

5. When belaying to a bitt, begin by taking several turns around the base

of the post below the metal crosspiece. Then make a half hitch around
one pin by slipping an underhand loop over its end (1). Finish by slipping
a second underhand loop over the other pin and pulling the line tight (2).