Page 30 - D. Raleigh "Knots and ropes for climbers"

Common Uses
Joining rope to anchors
Tying off protruding pitons, bolts, and ice screws

Clove Hitch on a carabiner.

Clove Hitch on a piton.

Slip Knot

The Slip Knot is a noose knot, and it's also technically a hitch. It's used like the Girth Hitch to tie off
pitons and ice screws that haven't driven their full distance. Unlike the Girth Hitch, though, the Slip
Knot is of one mind and doesn't enjoy other uses. Still, it's the aid climber's friend, easy to tie with one
hand, and equally easy to untie. When you use the Slip Knot, cinch it up snug and clip it so that the
weight-bearing strand continues to pull the knot tighter; take care not to reverse this, or the knot will
loosen and fall off. The Slip Knot is especially useful for cinching over protruding pitons, ice screws,
and bolts, as it's the trimmest tie-off knot and places the load closer to the rock than the Girth Hitch or
Clove Hitch.

Common Use
Tying off protruding pitons, ice screws, and bolts