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on account of the building styles, which is to say, dull and stolid. We sailed that
                evening, the remnant of which I spent canoodling enjoyably with Sandra.

                   We arrived in Sydney amidst pouring rain in the early evening of the following
                day. It was not hard to see that this was perhaps the finest harbour I had yet visited.
                Immediately obvious was the magnificence of the Sydney Harbour Bridge, at that
                time the world’s tallest steel arch bridge. Beyond it lay the business end of the port
                (where rude commerce ruled and cargo ships berthed) but we went alongside
                the splendid Ocean Terminal almost directly under the bridge, opposite which
                was sited the nearly-completed Sydney Opera House (the world is not that large;
                the unique shell design of the roof was tested at Southampton University), itself
                constructed upon pilings which had supported a tram terminal. The Terminal
                itself was without doubt the finest that I had yet seen. Of those ports that I had
                visited, undoubtedly the most magnificent from the sea was Cape Town (though
                the harbour was commonplace), but I began to see that there was a reason why so
                many P&O officers who had left England for finer economic opportunities had so
                often chosen New South Wales; it looked dynamic and prosperous, quite different
                from the rather drab and uninviting Melbourne.

                   That evening I went ashore briefly with Sandra, King’s Cross being close and
                recommended by my compadres as a place for a drink, some life, and a view of
                the more ribald side of Australian civilisation. I bade her farewell, not at all sure
                whether we would ever again get together, but definitely feeling some considerable
                warmth towards her, a positive soul who faced a challenging but promising life.

                   Next morning the passengers disembarked, but as we were due to leave Sydney
                the following day, a busy twenty-four hours followed for the hotel side of the ship’s
                complement as they discharged the old baggage and brought aboard the new
                passengers’ appurtenances. I took the opportunity to see a little more of the city
                and took a short harbour cruise; my appreciation of a splendid port only increased.
                   On the 8th, we began our cruise, a rather beguiling mixture of the exotic
                and the very exotic. But firstly, there was the usual routine of lifeboat drill and
                Captain’s Cocktail party to be endured. I noted that the Commodore did not
                seem enthusiastic about these events, and except for the unusual company-
                mandated Specials (such as Sir Harry, now disembarked) left the glad-handing to
                the Staff Captain. But upon lining up, especially in tourist-class, I noted that this
                cruise was not one so much to be endured as enjoyed; I had never seen such an
                assemblage of young ladies, most of whom seemed to be travelling in small tribes,
                parents nowhere in evidence. First-class was pretty good, but tourist was simply
                amazing. I went to bed that night full of hope and expectation.

                   In the morning, we were anchored off Hayman Island, a developing ‘resort’
                just off the coast of Queensland. This was a port where the crew was not permitted


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