Page 51 - Hi-Fi_News_-_December_2020 video

work begins with a black Urushi-painted RIGHT: Fashioned
undercoat, followed by another layer from a high-grade
that adds the red colour in a process that duralumin, the Umami

makes use of fine silver powder. To top Red’s semi-enclosing
this off, the Hana name is printed using a body includes two

fine gold powder and completed with a M2.6 threaded inserts

final protective lacquer coat. This is then for locking tight into a
comprehensively buffed for a perfect fi nish headshell. The boron
and shine. The overall effect is nothing cantilever is fully
short of stunning, so much so that my exposed so cueing is
installation of the cartridge was delayed very easy but extra
as I spent far too long simply admiring the caution is required in
fl awless craftsmanship... general handling
Fitment is aided immensely by two
captive screw threads built into the top
of the cartridge body. This will come as
a relief to an audiophile nervous about
damaging the body finish with the slip of

a bolt and sharp, hexagonal nut. Do be
aware, though, that these threaded holes
are not especially deep, so short screws
are a must. The cartridge is presented in a
simple but elegant wooden box [pictured, of high-tech groove diggers, blending the beautifully centre-stage and projected
p53] that also includes an instruction depth and detail of the latter with a touch superbly into the room, really putting the
leaflet and stylus cleaning brush. more warmth. Moreover, it succeeds in listener at the heart of the action. Then

The Umami Red tips the scales at eliciting crisp detail without the slight comes the saxophone solo at the end,
10.5g and has a recommended tracking hardness that can beset the performance which arrives blessed with just the right
force of precisely 2g, with no range given. of brighter, typically more brittle-sounding amount of rasp to sound realistic.
I experimented with different forces only pick-ups. Heck, it even has the feisty joie de So far so good, then, but the real
to find that 2g was indeed its sweet spot. vivre of the good old Denon DL-103, whose surprise is in the way the Umami Red

Furthermore, the Umami Red also seems recommended tracking can dig out the bass line
very sensitive to azimuth adjustment, so force of 2.5-2.8g some ‘Above all, this from deep down within
do take the time to set it up correctly – if it mistakenly fear will lead to a track. In this instance,
doesn’t have a big, enveloping soundstage premature record wear. pick-up has the the repeated sliding
then something’s not quite right. In fact, the Hana Umami notes from the upright
Red is not only a jack of all boogie factor bass came through with
LOVE AT FIRST BITE trades, it’s a master of most impressive weight, but
With the Umami Red fitted to an SME 309 of them. It has an unerring in spades’ the aspect that tickled me

arm [HFN Sep ’19] on my Michell Gyro SE ability to cut through to most was the delicious
turntable, my mouth almost watered as the heart of a recording and find the very squeak caused by Este Haim’s hand every

I anticipated the sonic delights to come. best lurking within. Aided by an ability to time she lifted it off the strings. It’s this
Would I end the evening leaning back track securely, the result is clarity, detail style of delivery that reminds us how some
with a contented sigh or be and depth, plus – above all – the pick-ups will forensically dissect the vinyl
searching for the number boogie factor in spades. yet still lose sight of the overall musical
of a late-night food Spin ‘Summer Girl’ message along the way. Not the Umami
delivery service due to from Haim’s Women In Red. It is able to lay an entire mix bare
lack of fulfi lment? I Music Pt III [Polydor while never forgetting that its purpose is to
needn’t have worried 0250813817], and the convey all the joy of the music at hand.
as the Umami Red Umami Red captures
is a compelling the thump of the FOOD FOR THOUGHT
companion and, just drums with aplomb, What’s more, it achieves all this with a
like the first bite of punching them pleasing ability to fill the soundstage

a fine meal, had me out with authority. between the loudspeakers with precision.

wanting more. Danielle Haim’s Its sense of front-to-back perspective is
This cartridge vocal is positioned arguably as good as it gets at the price,
slips neatly into the and ensures vinyl is a true 3D experience.
high-end pick-up LEFT: The pole piece When it comes to the low end,
scene, striking an and front and rear yokes the Umami Red digs deeply and with

excellent balance of the samarium-cobalt confidence. Bass lines are picked up on,
between the rose- magnet assembly are all brought to the fore and presented with

tinted lushness of cryogenically annealed, a flourish. Now, that said, there are still
some ‘traditional’ MCs as are the rear cartridge times when this cartridge can be a little
and the cooler analysis pins [see p53] over-zealous when it comes to the really

DECEMBER 2020 | www.hifi news.co.uk | 51