Page 52 - Forbes Magazine-October 31, 2018
P. 52

FORBES                                                             LYNSI SNYDER IN-N-OUT BURGER

                                                                    BATTLE OF THE BURGERS
         “I really wanted to make sure that we stayed true to what                         no, California. On
         we started with. That required me to become a protector. A                        the way home, the
         guardian.”                                                                        ten-passenger plane
                                                                                           crashed, leaving no
         IN 1948, HARRY AND ESTHER SNYDER, Lynsi’s grandparents,                           survivors. After his
         opened the first In-N-Out, in Baldwin Park. It had no indoor                      death, Esther be-
         seating, so Harry installed a two-way speaker box connect-                        came president, and
         ed to the kitchen, creating an early drive-thru window. As                        Guy, who had sep-
         Americans flooded the new U.S. highway system, In-N-Out,     BURGER KING          arated from Lynsi’s
         which was placing its restaurants alongside the new roads,   Whopper              mother earlier that
         took off. In southern California, In-N-Outs became a hang-                        year, took over as ex-
                                                                  A quarter-pound of “savory
                                                                    flame-grilled beef.”    ecutive vice presi-
                                                                                           dent and chairman.
         “IT’S NOT ABOUT ADDING                                     $4.49   660 CALORIES     During Guy’s six
                                                                    INTRODUCED: 1957
                                                                                           years as chairman,
         NEW PRODUCTS. OR THINKING                                  221,184                In-N-Out grew to
         OF THE NEXT BACON-WRAPPED                                                         140 stores, with over
                                                                   Possible ways to order a
         THIS OR THAT,” SAYS SNYDER.                              Whopper and trimmings.   $200 million in rev-
                                                                                           enue. Yet he strug-
         “WE’RE REALLY PICKY AND                                 Limited-time offers have   gled personally. On
                                                                 included the A.1 Halloween
         STRATEGIC. WE’RE NOT GOING                               Whopper (with a black    Christmas Day 1995
                                                                                           he was arrested for
         TO COMPROMISE.”                                          bun) and the Angriest    public intoxication
                                                                  Whopper (with a hot-
                                                                  sauce-infused red bun).  and illegally carry-
         out for hot rod racers. From the early days, Harry and Es-                        ing a loaded firearm,
         ther were keen to keep as many aspects of the business in-                        which he had along
         house as they could. They butchered their own meat, started                       with a switchblade
         a wholesaling firm to stock up on paper supplies and used   knife and marijuana. Over the next few years he survived a
         their own construction crew to build new stores.   drug-related heart attack and three drug overdoses before
            In-N-Out grew gradually, reaching 18 locations, all in   dying of heart failure (with hydrocodone in his system) in
         California, by the time Harry died in 1976. His younger son,   December 1999, at age 48.
         Rich, took his spot;                                  “When he was sober, he was the best dad in the world.
         the elder son, Guy,       BATTLE OF THE BURGERS    We had our time cut short,” says Lynsi, who has a scroll with
         Lynsi’s father, had                                the words “Daddy’s Girl” tattooed on her right shoulder.
         been passed over.                                     Before her father died, Lynsi had worked for a few
         He had an ongoing                                  months at an In-N-Out in Redding, California, separat-
         problem with opi-                                  ing leaves of lettuce and working the register. Soon after,
         oids after a motorcy-                              the 18-year-old married and moved close to the company’s
         cle accident left him                              headquarters in Baldwin Park to take a job at In-N-Out’s
         with chronic pain.                                 corporate merchandising department, approving projects
         He spent his days                                  like T-shirt designs. Lynsi fell into a year-long stretch of al-
         away from the com-                                 cohol and marijuana use, and she and her husband divorced
                                     MCDONALD’S
         pany, drag racing                                  after a few years. A second short-lived marriage followed.
         or on his 115-acre          Big Mac                   “It was like a black-sheep era of my life,” she says. “By the
         ranch in the Sierra     “Mouthwatering perfection.”   time I hit 22, it was pretty much over.”
         Nevada Mountains,          INTRODUCED: 1967           Lynsi rotated through departments at In-N-Out to learn
         where Lynsi grew up.      $4.44   560 CALORIES     the business. As Lynsi educated herself on how it worked,
            In December                                     Esther, then in her 80s, ran day-to-day operations. Then Es-
         1993, Rich flew to       1.3 billion               ther died too, in 2006.
         see his niece Lynsi       Number sold in 2017         Mark Taylor, a longtime In-N-Out executive (who is also
                                    around the globe.
         in a play at a  private                            Lynsi’s brother-in-law), became company president, turning
         Christian school and     Wisconsinite Donald       over the role to Lynsi in 2010. At age 27, Lynsi was running
         then continued on          Gorske holds the        In-N-Out, which was generating an estimated $550 million
         to the opening of       world’s record for eating   in sales at 251 locations.
         store No. 93 in Fres-  the most Big Macs—nearly       Her third marriage came soon after, this time to a race car
                                      30,000.



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