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PLACES IN ISRAEL           THE PEOPLE AND THE LAND



                                                                                             Eve Harow




                      Bar’am and Purim









         ust three kilometers from Lebanon   and this is also the case in other Galilean   fifth century building of churches and
         on Israel’s northern border lie the   Talmudic towns where the synagogues   Samaritan synagogues around the Land.
      Jremains of the ancient Jewish village   are older than the signs of settlement   One of the interesting traditions con-
       of Kfar Bar’am. Founded in all likeli-  around them.                      nected to Bar’am is of it being the burial
       hood during the Second Temple period,                                     place of Mordechai and Esther, in a
       the town remained Jewish for centu-  How can this be explained? The latest
       ries until some time between the early   theory is the buildings are put together   tomb in the National Park near the syn-
                                                                                 agogue. On Purim in 1949, Jews from
       Muslim conquest in the seventh century   from stones in secondary use, mean-  Tzfat read the Megillah there, reviving
       and the Ayyubids in the late 12th/early   ing they were carved earlier for other
       13th century when it was abandoned   buildings elsewhere and reused in these   a Middle Ages tradition to celebrate
       and occupied by Muslims. Maronite    new sites. It’s clear, for example, that   Shushan Purim at the site. We have
       Christians lived there till 1948, and in   the lintel of the Bar’am synagogue is   evidence from as early as 1215 of trav-
                                                                                 ellers and explorers writing that Queen
       1949 the secular Hashomer HaTzair    not the original. What possible reason
       established Kibbutz Bar’am on the land   would there be for this taking apart and   Esther had instructed ‘her son Cyrus’
       where they now cultivate orchards of   rebuilding?                        to bury her there and it soon became
       plums, nectarines, apples and pears.                                      a site of pilgrimage. It’s unclear though
                                                                                 what the source of the tradition is and
       After the destruction of Bayit Sheini                                     the more accepted version is that they
       (70 CE) and the demolishing of Judean                                     are buried in Hamadan, Iran, possibly
       towns as punishment for the Bar Kochba                                    ancient Shushan. But still…
       Revolt (132-135/6 CE), the Galilee and
       Golan became the center of Jewish life                                    In another Tzfat-Bar’am connection,
       in Israel under the Roman and Byzan-                                      there’s a tradition that the facade of the
       tine Empires. Many synagogues in the                                      Tiferet Yisrael synagogue in the Old City
       area were built from the third century                                    of Jerusalem was inspired by the arches
       and are mentioned in Mishnaic and                                         of the ancient synagogue of… Bar’am.
       Talmudic literature. There are a few in                                   As the story goes, after the devastat-
       the southern Chevron Hills (Eshtamoa,                                     ing earthquake of 1837, survivors from
       Sussya, Maon, Carmel) and some in the   Remember that quarrying, carving and   Tzfat came to live in Jerusalem and in a
       Jordan Valley Rift (Ein Gedi, Jericho)   moving stones in the ancient world was   desire to remember their beloved Gali-
       but the vast majority are in the eastern   an expensive, time-consuming and dif-  lee, designed the synagogue to look like
       Galilee and Golan. These are some of   ficult endeavor, so there was much sec-  the one in Bar’am.
       the earliest synagogues we know and   ondary and even tertiary use of stones.   Traditions, conjecture, history, holi-
       there has been much debate about     It’s likely the Romans didn’t allow the   days. We may never know the ‘truth,’
       the time of their building. Of the two   Jews to have monumental buildings for   but we’ve come home and can once
       synagogues in Kfar Bar’am, one has   worship and they could only do it at a   again celebrate, in the Land of Israel,
       been preserved and restored and is the   later time. Perhaps they weren’t allowed   the Purim miracle that happened in the
       subject of scholarly investigation. The   to carve anything new and could just   galut.
       synagogue itself has been dated to the   recycle what had already been built. It’s
       third century based on a relief and other   also more than possible that the very
       evidence, however the archaeological   early original synagogues mentioned   Eve Harow is a licensed tour guide, pod-
                                                                                 caster and public speaker.
       survey of the area around it has remains   by the Sages were very simple affairs,
       only from the fifth century. Much has   more like a beit midrash, and these   eveharow.com • eve.harow@gmail.com
       been discussed about this discrepancy   impressive buildings were constructed   A member of the Mizrachi Tour Guides Bureau
       between the building and the grounds   later, perhaps commensurate with the   `  mizrachi.org/tour-guides





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