Page 179 - J. C. Turner - History and Science of Knots
P. 179

A History of Life Support Knots             169

            Friction Hitches
        The first friction hitches, specially the Prusik Hitch (Fig. 20) have already been
       described and it was mentioned that a few European cavers experimented with
       an abseil-down, prusik-up method of traversing vertical caves. This technique
       has developed a lot since the War. The various ways of manipulating the slings
       to ascend a rope constitute one of the major contributions by cavers to the
       use of life-support ropes.
            Starting in 1952, Bill Cuddington developed this system for use in Ameri-
       can caves. It has since been adopted and adapted world-wide, becoming known
       as the Single Rope Technique or SRT. From the 1950s on, many different knots
       have been suggested as alternatives to the Prusik Hitch; Thrun [32] in 1971
       described more than 25, most developed by American cavers. Novel knots
       continue to be developed all over the world, by both climbers and cavers, de-
       spite the introduction of mechanical devices which grip the rope and can be
       used in similar ways to the Prusik Hitch. The first mechanical ascender was
       invented in 1958 by two Swiss mountaineers, Jusy, a game warden, and Marti,
       an engineer, and given the name Jumar [21, p. 311], so that climbing with
       ascenders is sometimes known as `jumaring', though `prusiking' is also used
       to describe all ways of ascending a rope using slings. Improvements and other
       devices followed later. These mechanical ascenders have practically replaced
       friction hitches in SRT in caving, in the use of fixed ropes in expedition moun-
       taineering, and in many of the activities of full-scale rescue teams. But in
       other applications, the knots are still used extensively, partly because of the
       cost, weight and bulk of the ascenders, partly because of the versatility of the
       knots and the ready improvisation of the equipment. Only the most popular
       of the friction hitches will be mentioned below; note that many of them are
       named after a person.
           It must have been discovered quite early in the experience of the Prusik
       Hitch that in some conditions it did not hold. Mountaineers with iced-up rope
       or cavers with muddy rope could expect trouble. Cuddington is said to have
       developed the Double Prusik Hitch (Fig. 38) to extract himself from a solo
       trip to a muddy cave in the 1950s [21, p. 311], and the knot is now commonly
       used when the ordinary Prusik Hitch slips. All the friction hitches need to
       have the number of turns adjusted to suit the conditions; experience and trial
       and error are needed. My drawings show the number of turns most frequently
       called for.
           There is a trend towards simplicity in the structure of the more successful
       friction hitches; they seem easier to tie and less likely to jam. The Klemheist
       Hitch (literally: clamp hoist) (Fig. 39) should have the upper loop as short as
       possible. The knot is also satisfactory when tied in climbers' tape or webbing
       [11, p. 36][20, p. 34][29, p. 46]. If the lower loop is half-hitched round the
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