Page 197 - J. C. Turner - History and Science of Knots

Table 2. KNOT STRENGTH EFFICIENCIES

Knot and Ashley number [5] 189212] 1928 [36] 1957 [201 1967 [341 1970 [161 1977 [271 1983 [11] 1986 [231 Mean Mean
Manila Flax cord Natural Nylon Manila Nylon Natural Nylon Table 4 Table 5
Climbing Fibre Climbing Laid Kernmantle Fibre Kernmantle Polyprop Kernmantle
Rope Laid Laid Dynamic Laid Static Laid Dynamic

Knots
Overhand Knot #519 55% - 50% 45%
Figure Eight #520 61% 45%

Bends
Reef Knot #1402 53% 63% 55% 54% 50% - 45% slipped 42%
Ring Bend #1412 - - - - - 60-70% - 44% - 65%
Sheetbend #1418 47% - - 65% 50% - 50% 45% 48%
Fishermans Knot #1414 62% 81% - 59% 65% 60-65% 65% 39% - 61%
Double Fishermans Knot #1415 59% - - - - 65-70% - 56% -

Loops
Bowline #1010 72% 78% 629, 65% 60% 70-75% 60% 52% 57% 70%
Double Bowline #1013 - 73% - 69%„ - - - - - -
Fishermans Loop #1038 65% 74% - - - - - - - -
Overhand Loop #1009 64% 80% - 49% - 60-65% - 50% - 67%
Figure Eight Loop #1047 77% - - - - 75-80% - 55% - -

Hitches
Clove Hitch #1670 78% 60-65% 75% slipped 54% 65%
Timber Hitch #1665 - - 80% - 70% 70% - 67%