Page 202 - J. C. Turner - History and Science of Knots

Studies on the Behaviour of Knots 191

Table 5. INFLUENCE OF ROPE SIZE ON KNOT STRENGTH EFFICIENCY
Nylon kernmantle dynamic climbing rope and cord [8, p32]
Knot and Ashley number [5] 4 mm 5 mm 7 mm 9 mm 12 mm Mean (to
diam diam diam diam diam Table 2).

Bends
Ring Bend #1412 53% 62% 68% 59% 63% 61%
Fishermans Knot #1414 56% 66% 71% 62% 68% 65%

Loops
Bowline #1010 64% 72% 75% 67% 71% 70%
Overhand Loop #1009 61% 60% 72% 67% 71% 66%

Hitches
Clove Hitch #1670 62% 72% 66% 60% 63% 65%

Table 6. INFLUENCE OF ROPE SIZE ON KNOT STRENGTH EFFICIENCY
Nylon static kernmantle rope [35]
Knot and Ashley number [5] 9mm diam 11 mm diam

Bends
Double Fishermans Knot # 1415 78% 88%

Loops
Mid loop End loop Mid loop End loop
Alpine Butterfly #1053 66% 78% 76% 79%
Figure Eight Loop #1047 58% 72% 63% 73%

Figure Nine Loop (based on # 521) 58% 90% 51% 84%