Page 307 - The Complete Rigger’s Apprentice
P. 307

Dockside Tune                                   The fore-and-aft rake of the mast is largely an
                  For rough tuning at the dock, start by using the  aesthetic consideration. Yes, it can affect the center
                  shrouds and stays to plumb the mast athwartships,  of effort, and therefore helm balance, but sail and
                  and to induce any desired rake in the fore-and-aft  hull trim are usually far more powerful and simple
                  plane. Most riggers accomplish the lateral measure-  ways to affect this. What is more, significant mast
                  ment by running the end of a long tape measure to  rake throws off things like boom height and staysail
                  the masthead on a halyard. Then they triangulate  shape. In any event, rake is constrained by the size
                  by measuring down to corresponding chainplates on  and location of partners on keel-stepped rigs, and
                  either side. This sounds logical, but there are some  the angle of the mast base platform on those that
                  problems with it: The halyard is measurably elas-  are deck stepped. In general, I find it most effective
                  tic, so pulling the tape tight must be done exactly  to set rake according to the designer’s intent, and
                  the same on both sides, or you get skewed readings;  deal with the helm by other means.
                  the halyard is usually in a sheave that is set off-cen-  When making initial adjustments, take up a lit-
                  ter, which also skews the results; you have to fight  tle bit at a time on each turnbuckle, and when you
                  your way around boom and topping lift to get the  think things are about right, take a look from some
                  tape from one side to the other; and even if you get  distance away for perspective.
                  good measurements, the results tell you only where   When you’re satisfied, you can begin the
                  the top of the mast is, when you want to center the  actual tuning. What you’re after is a mast which is
                  whole thing.                                 straight laterally, is either straight or has a desired
                      Instead, stand in front of the mast and make a  bend fore-and-aft, and which retains its shape
                  mark with a China marker on the center of the front,  under way. Wire stretches under load, and stretches
                  as high as you can readily reach. If there is a spin-  further the longer it is and the more heavily it is
                  naker track there, choose the center of a fastener at  loaded. So you have to compensate for that stretch,
                  that height. Measure down to the chainplates from  now, by pretensioning each wire a specific amount,
                  there. You are still triangulating, just with a much  so that it won’t stretch too much or too little. That’s
                  shorter triangle. No halyard elasticity, no offset, no  tuning.
                  struggle, and you now know where the bottom of   You want the longest wires to be the tight-
                  the mast is, so you can use it as a reference point,  est, because they would otherwise stretch too far.
                  sighting up the luff to center the mast above. But  Shorter wire will be less tight, but no wire should
                  wait, there’s more. What if the mast is not leaning,  ever be slack. In terms of a percentage of maximum
                  but actually offset to one side? The step or the part-  wire strength, you’ll want 10 to 12 percent load on
                  ners might be off center, or the chainplates might be  the lowers, 12 to 15 percent on the intermediates,
                  asymmetrically placed. If this is so, there will be a  if any, and 15 to 20 percent on the uppers. You can
                  different angle of shrouds on one side than the other.  use any of a variety of tension gauges for measur-
                  So measure from a chest-high point on the center  ing these loads, but in the absence of one, start by
                  of the face of the mast out to the upper shrouds.  tightening the lowers, a little bit at a time, until you
                  If the numbers are different, you have an offset. If  can strum a low musical note on them. Not just a
                  it is the partners that are off-center, you might be  vibration, a musical note. That’s about 10 percent
                  able to get the mast on center by changing the size  load. Make any intermediates a little tighter, and
                  of the wedges on either side. If the problem is with  the uppers tighter still.
                  the step or the chainplates, things will be harder to   Don’t go to the next wires until the slack is gone
                  fix, but you can at least use the knowledge of the  from the ones you’re working on and the related
                  problem when you tune, going a little tighter on the  section of mast has the desired shape in both
                  steeper-angled side, to compensate for the difference  planes. Otherwise, it is easy to put assorted bows
                  in lateral pull.                             into the stick without knowing which wires have

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