Page 153 - Arabiab Studies (IV)

European Accounts of Muscat 143
after rain. The fortifications arc strong and could resist an
assault and there is only one pass, by the Sudoaf road, into
the interior. Outside the walls there is a noxious pond and
mat-hovels as people are not allowed to build anything more
solid for fear of providing shelter for an enemy attack. The
British Consul, a Banyan, provided a party with dancing girls.
The beef was the best that they had seen since leaving
England and there is fine fruit including kissmisses which is a
raisin without stones. It is all filthy for ‘the Arab is beyond a
doubt the dirtiest of human species’.
WOLF, Lieut. R. N., ‘Narrative of a voyage to explore the
shores of Africa, Arabia and Madagascar’, JRGS, London, iii,
1833, 207. A member of Capt Owen’s crew, he adds nothing
to his commander’s account.
1824 KEPPEL, Capt. Hon. George, Narrative of a journey from
India to England, London, 1837, 9-33. He visited in February.
The town is two miles in circumference and contains 2,000
people, with more, mainly Abyssinian slaves and Beduins in
huts in the suburbs. ‘The natives are very squalid in
appearance’, at least 10% of them being blind in one eye. The
people are ‘Bee-asis, more rigid than other sects’ but ‘they
have a great regard for justice, and an universal toleration for
other religions’. They do not smoke, have no pomp in their
dress or houses, no dervishes or convents. He visited Sayyid
Said in his palace with a narrow gate into a square courtyard,
a fountain and ‘a few sickly shrubs’. The Sayyid understood
Persian and Hindustani and possibly English, and received all
with patriarchal simplicity: even beggars could sit in his
presence. He arranged horses at Muttrah to take the visitors
to the beautifully situated town of Poorshur. Each spring had
a fort to protect it. In the suq were salt, sulphur, fried locusts,
and 20-30 fat little negresses. At the Customs House a negro
had a long sharp instrument which he stuck into each sack of
rice and drew out a standard amount.
1825 MILBURN, William, Oriental Commerce, London, 1825.
Only Arabs and Banians are allowed to live within the walls.
Ships are not allowed in or out after dusk. Caravans from the
interior bring almonds, ostrich feathers, rhino horns,
elephants’ teeth, skins, wax, pearl-shells, horses and raisins: in
return they take East Indian commodities, ginger, grain,
opium, pepper, European cutleiy, glass and mirrors. Muslims
pay 2J% and foreigners 5%. Local weights are 24 cuchas equal
one maund which equals 81bs 12oz. All Persian, Indian and
Turkish coins are used, measured by weight. 20 gass equals 1
mamoodie, 4 mamoodie equals 1 Bombay rupee and 7J equal
a Spanish Dollar.
As. Jml., June. Oman ‘is a country for which God has done
much and man little’, with a population reckoned at 460,000