Page 158 - Arabiab Studies (IV)

148 Arabian Studies IV
there were about 100 women in the household. The Imam’s
mother was simply dressed and busy sewing which she said
she had learned from European ladies. The Imam’s wife
‘glittered in all the usual oriental splendour’, but the ladies
were embarrassed at their guest’s being unveiled. She was told
that not even a mother sees her daughter’s face after the age
of 12. In the reception room was a four-poster bedstead with
velvet hangings which she was told was a gift from Queen
Victoria.
1838 HENSHAW, Joshua, Around the world, New York, 1840,
202-35. Visited in October. He was reminded of the Biblical
Fiery Furnace and one sailor died in 10 minutes of exposure.
He put the population of Muscat at 10,000 and of Muttrah at
8,000. The town occupies a sandy plain stretching back half a
mile from the sea. Only three large buildings are visible. The
middle one, with cupolas and resembling a cotton factory in a
country village, was the Sultan’s palace. Nearby is a many-
arched basement with a storey above called the Customs
House. Then there is nothing until a dingy row of sheds. The
western half is occupied by four or five large houses, except
for a few cabins for silver smiths. Between the palaces and the
western heights is a short creek with a stone pier used as a
dock. The Bcduins reminded him of Red Indians with their
tunics and long black ringlets and he went to a Beduin camp
where the chief organised a display of sword fighting for the
visitors. The Banyans have their foreheads and chins marked
with yellow clay and have turbans of crimson serge with a
knob in front like a cow’s horn. Women eat three scolopcndra
fried in butter twice a day to increase their weight and
attractiveness. The author was offered a prostitute with a ring
on every toe, nails stained blue, palms dyed red, teeth blued
and eyebrows extended with antimony. This was in a caf6
outside the walls with a stone counter covered in coffee
boilers and tiny cups. There were also bamboo huts occupied
by weavers, bracelet-makers and barbers. He met a juggler
with vipers in his hair. He visited the Sayyid’s stud which had
nearly 1,000 horses, mostly of Kadischi breed, small, muscular
and delicate. He made friends with Captain Calfan who had
been educated in Calcutta. The house was cooled by a muslin
punkah worked by a Hindu. Calfan’s son had a red silk
scull-cap, little rings in each ear, jewels in his nose and around
his neck a bag of inscriptions from the Quran and medals.
Calfan recounted that he had heard of only one murder,
committed by an officer while drunk. He confessed, overcome
by remorse. Sayyid Said offered to pay 10,000 muhamadees
blood money but the relatives refused and the murderer was
executed with a sword on the beach.
MURRELL, William Meacham, The Cruise of the Frigate