Page 202 - Arabian Studies (II)

194 Arabian Studies II

bore the appearance of a man on our return, and answering
the challenges of the sentinels reached the camp in safety,
not however before he had nearly broken his neck by stepping
over a six foot embankment. 1 was close upon his heels and
had he not preceded me I must have gone also, the night was
so murky.
5 Upon daybreak started with Evans, Johnstone, three of the
Coote seamen, E’s and my servants, and a guide for the
summit of Djebel Shunsum, the high range of hills behind the
town to the Westward.
Ascended and descended several small elevations, almost
totally destitute of vegetation, till we reached a broad stone
wall, constructed in the time of Soliman the Magnificent, to
facilitate the ascent to the fortifications. This road excepting
where it was broken down by the rains (which it was in some
places dangerously) was generally about twelve feet in width
and often overlooked perpendicular precipices of some
hundred feet. It must have been the work of some years and
required immense labor to complete it. The principles of
fortification were then very different from those of the
present time. What engineer would think of running a wall
flanked by towers along the summit of a range of hills
seventeen hundred feet above the level of the sea? The wall,
intended as a road, was here and there formed into steps but
in consequence of its being dilapidated in some places we
were obliged to leave it, and climb the rock itself till at length
we found ourselves on the summit of the highest peak, which
was surmounted by a ruined tower, accomodated like the
rest, with a tank. Here we obtained a magnificent view of
Front and Back Bays and the surrounding country but were
unable to distinguish the town of Lahadj which is about
seventeen miles distant. We looked down upon the shipping
in Back Bay, to which was added the steamer from Suez.
Having deferred our breakfast until the highest point was
gained, we were quite prepared to enjoy it and afterwards
fired three volleys with the sailors’ muskets and our own
arms. Then gave three cheers and waved the British Jack. We
left as usual with escaladers like ourselves a memorial of our
visit in a claret bottle, which we had emptied.
From this height we discovered a great number of
baboons and jackals, which on our firing fled with all
imaginable haste.
We ascended a second peak, where the fortifications were
more extensive and the tank in a better state of preservation
and having rested awhile commenced our return downwards
which we effected in safety, altho’ the loose stones once or
twice nearly finished the career of one of our party. In one