Page 214 - Arabian Studies (II)

206 Arabian Studies II

afternoons. The goods available continuously in the market are
supplemented by the weekly visits of the palm-straw-goods traders
from the Tihamah, who bring hats (the finely woven kufiyah and the
large zillah sun-hat), mats, camel muzzles and straw trays.
It is difficult to detect any specific orientation among the
permanent shops in the market, either in relation to the market
mosque or the living quarters of the town, unless it be towards the
palace, Qasr Si‘dan, where there is a sort of crossroads. Here the road
to al-Hudaydah meets the track to Kuhlan which lies on the route to
§an‘a’, and crossing these are the footpath to the northern parts of
the town, the quarters known as al-Jiraf and al-Zahrayn and the fort,
al-Qahirah, and the road through the market to the southern part of
the town, Na‘man. The palace itself is a busy meeting place as it is
used as a government rest-house, officers’ quarters and centre of the
town’s financial administration.
The principal thoroughfare of the market (see map) runs from
outside the palace at the northern end to a small round reservoir
(birikY at the southern end. Most of the shops here (sixty in all) sell
a variety of imported foods, such as canned fruit, vegetables, meat
and fish from China, Russia, the Eastern European countries and
much of Western Europe. Sugar and flour, chiefly imported, and
locally produced eggs are also sold in this part of the market. As well
as food, one can find most general household requirements. Some
shops, especially at the northern end of the street, are large and must
have a considerable turnover.
Just off this street on the eastern edge of the market is the market
mosque (Jami‘ al-Suq). It is small and of simple construction,
distinguished by the fact that prayers are regularly performed on the
roof. It is not the principal mosque of the town, and is used mainly
by market traders and workmen.
As one enters the main thoroughfare from the northern end, one
sees first of all a narrow street leading off to the right. Here most of
the fruit sellers are to be found. It is possible to buy fresh and dried
dates grown in Yemen, pressed dates imported from Saudi Arabia or
Iraq, raisins, bananas when they are in season, and occasionally
quinces. Apples and oranges are expensive being imported from
Lebanon and Egypt, and are sold by the general traders on the main
street.
Adjacent to the fruit market is the vegetable market. There is not a
wide range of fresh vegetables to be found in Hajjah, but potatoes,
tomatoes, okra (bamiyah), onions and garlic are usually available. It
is also possible to buy dried beans (Jul) and peas/lentils Cadas,
bilsin/binsin). Most vegetables are surprisingly cheap. This and the