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the top-class white Pera Manca, by the glass, and even has its my- thical Pera Manca Tinto superwine in stock. However, this Aragonez Trincadeira Cuvée, which is met with quasi-religious devotion in countries such as Brazil, can only be ordered by the bottle.
Estremoz, just a half-hour drive away, is also worth a trip for wine lovers. Numerous famous producers are located in and around the small town, perched on a mountain ridge, including the classic João Portu- gal Ramos and the Dona Maria showcase from Alentejo pioneer Julio Bastos. It is not just the cla- rity of the wines made under this brand that has given them their exemplary character in the region: the perfect interplay between local and international varieties has also played a role. Top products Dona Maria Grande Reserva and Julio B. Bastos Alicante Bouschet are a must, and the historic property, with its open wine press tanks, is a rewarding place to visit.
Fortunate grape varieties
There is a broad range of gra- pe varieties in Alentejo. On the one hand, international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Sy- rah and Petit Verdot, which is less successful in the northern stret- ches of western Europe, play a role. Nowhere else in Portugal have these immigrant varieties integ- rated themselves so seamlessly. However, the key to success is held by local varieties, the pro le of which shapes the lion‘s share of red wine production. Over the 28-year history of the regulated designation of the wine-growing area, with its picturesque Mediter- ranean landscapes, two import- ant red quality drivers have paved the way: Trincadeira and Alicante Bouschet. In addition, there is one more grape which does not have Portuguese heritage, strictly spe- aking, but which has had excellent results across Alentejo, Douro and Dão: this is Aragonez, otherwise
known as Tinta Roriz or Tempranillo. Above all, Trincadeira and Alicante have proved to be fortunate for the agricultural region, since both are optimally adapted to the dry climate. There is hardly another variety in the world that copes as well with dry, warm climates as Trincadeira, and you have to ask yourself why this undemanding grape has not become an export hit for winemaking regions with similar climate conditions. Only a few African winemakers value the extraordinary bene ts of this utter- ly unappreciated grape. It tends not to overripen, keeps stable acidity even in high temperatures, is disci- plined in terms of alcohol content, and creates fruity wines with hints of balsamic. An additional phen- omenon is the Alicante Bouschet, which was actually developed as a teinturier variety for southwest France by Henri Bouschet in the 19th Century. Just a few deca- des ago it was an insider‘s tip in Alentejo, but now producers don‘t use it to create rare, top-class wi- nes: they use it
sed in good plants to form a sur- prisingly fresh, dynamic heart, and, paired with rm eshiness, makes the variety a wonderful, unique selling point for the winemaking area. Its pioneer is the legendary Herdade do Mouchão winery which celebrates the Alicante Bouschet across its entire portfolio and, with its iconic Tonel N° 3-4 plant, has given individual, top-class charac- ter to Portuguese red wine. In the meantime, this historic showcase product has become better distri- buted across the German market, thankfully.
Experimental diversity and rebel- lious creativity characterise mo- dern-day Alentejo. The amphora is experiencing a renaissance: albeit not as a way to bring shapeless, oxidative, wannabe professions of misunderstood naturalness into the world, but as a logical nod to a cul- ture of winemaking that stretches back millennia. Besides the spec- tacular Alicante Bouschet product, the Herdade de Rocim offers a promising vine of this type. And
if you still don‘t b e l i e v e t h a t Alentejo is quite so dynamic, you
are strongly advised to visit Quinta do Freixo, just outside Estremoz. A wonderful estate, a completely underground cellar, designed with regard for the smallest details: it would be hard to imagine it being more spectacular, along with its wines of striking precision and elegance.
for wines which
are mid-range
in terms of price.
Many winemakers could not ima- gine doing without it as a cuvée partner, in particular. This variety can be seen as a gift from Alentejo to other Portuguese winemakers which is gratefully accepted by growing numbers of producers in other winemaking areas in the southern half of the country. Its elegant concentration is conden-
Experimental diversity and rebellious creativity characterise
modern-day Alentejo.
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