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hütet er wie die Werkzeuge seines Großvaters, von dem er viel übers Buttermachen gelernt hat. Erst wenn sich nach 48 Stunden der Rahm auf der Milch abgesetzt hat, darf man der But- ter wieder beim Werden zuschauen. Der Rahm wird dann in ein Fass gepumpt und von einem riesigen Quirl zwei Stunden lang durchgedreht. Dabei explodieren die Fettkügelchen, die But- termilch tritt aus und übrig bleibt nur das Fett. Das kommt in Eiswasser, es verklebt und fer- tig ist die Butter. Doch für Bordier fängt die Ar- beit an der Walkmaschine dann erst an. Denn erst, wenn die Butter einmal geweint hat, macht sie ihn und seine Kunden wirklich glücklich.
„Jeder Buttermacher hat ein Geheimnis“
His animals eat in line with the seasons
ter in Brittany: they use great quantities of it to fry meat and sh, douse sardines and crepes in it, and bake a cake called Kouign-Amann, in which for around 250 grams of our 200 grams of butter are needed. In Spézet, a vil- lage in western Brittany, a mound of butter is even taken to church for a blessing once a year.
Bordier has left his cows with the farmer, and meanders across the at land for an hour, th- rough tiny villages with light stone houses and a church at their centre. As he climbs out of his car in front of the milk cooperative in Rennes, a cold wind lashes his face. The milk separates from the fat in huge tanks, centrifuges warm the milk, and a couple of enzymes are also in play — but he won‘t say precisely which ones. „Every butter-maker has their secret,“ he says, and he shields his like the tools of his grandfather, from whom he learnt a lot about making butter.
Only once the cream has separated from the milk, after 48 hours, can you watch the but- ter coming into being again. The cream is then pumped into a pail, and churned by a huge be- ater for two hours. In doing so, the fat globu- les explode, the buttermilk seeps out, and only the fat remains. This is added to iced water, it sticks together, and the butter is nished. But for Bordier, the work on the roller machine is just beginning. Because only when the butter has cried can he, and his customers, be truly happy.
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