Page 119 - Southern Oregon Magazine Summer 2021

I asked what changes Harlan has made since taking ownership. His
answer reflects the commitment to upholding the reputation of excel-
lence The Peerless is known for and always extended to guests. “We
have always kept our mission distilled and simple—Spread joy through
delicious food and exceptional service in a beautiful space where
human connection thrives. To that end, bits and pieces absolutely have
to shift and change over time as we give our goal the care it deserves.
This means dishes and cocktails change seasonally, but it also means
changes to our dining space decor, thought put into what the chef’s
plant and care for in our gardens or adjustments to our service pattern
if a step is extraneous and fussy or something like tea service needs dishes in an interview, we wind up changing the menu before it goes
more care. During the first shut-down of 2020, I hand-built thirty to print [chuckles]. What follows is weeks of my service staff having to
tables out of 2” thick black walnut to give each guest a warmer tactile explain that the dish doesn’t exist anymore to readers excited to try
experience once seated (also doing away with the wasteful practices it. Anyway, I would have to say the Salmon Tartare with fennel stem,
surrounding tablecloths). Actively refining our process and space over capers, avocado, olive oil, flaky salt, chive, chervil, and rustic crackers.”
the years has led to a restaurant that I hardly recognize compared to
when I started. I like that.” Harlan recommends one of two local wine pairings for the Salmon
Tartare. The 2Hawk Winery Sauvignon Blanc due to its acid levels
The dinner menu boasts small plates and entrees featuring seasonal and bright citrus flavors to compliment the rich salmon. Or, Troon
flavors of the Pacific Northwest region. Vineyard’s Kubli Bench Amber, due to its tannins and textures and
its ginger/chamomile notes—a great dance partner for the buttery
I’m always curious to know which entrée and wine pairing the chef salmon and creamy avocado.
recommends. Chef Brooks revealed, “Every time I celebrate one of our

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