Page 38 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"

Dress the knot by
incrementally adjusting
all the rope strands. Be
sure that all strands
are parallel within the
knot, the tail is 6 inches
(no longer or shorter),
and there is a small gap
between the knot and the
harness.

The Figure 8 Follow Through

Strength: Reduces rope strength by 10-20 percent.
Visual clarity: When tied correctly and well
dressed, the figure 8 follow through is unmistak-
able; its curving parallel lines create a symmetry
that no other knot possesses.
Efficiency: It takes only three steps to tie the
figure 8 follow through, and it is relatively easy to
untie unless it has been heavily loaded.
Security: The figure 8 follow through is a very
secure knot. It would require two unlikely contor-
tions to reduce the load-bearing properties of the
knot; therefore no secondary knots or hitches are
required to secure the figure 8 follow through.
Failure mechanism: The figure 8 follow
through has a consistent failure mechanism when
large forces are applied to it. It breaks just inside
the second turn of its follow through.
Ideal applications: Climbing in a group.
Climbing with novices. Climbing instruction.

Tying the Rope to a Climber 25