Page 43 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"

Figure 8 on a Bight

Anyone familiar with a figure 8 follow through will
instantly recognize the figure 8 on a bight. Many
climbing wall and group climbing programs use this
knot with a pair of locking carabiners to attach the
climbing rope to one climber after another. When
combined with the locking carabiners, the rope can
be transferred quickly from one climber to the next,
eliminating the need for each climber to tie and untie
the knot.

Figure 8 on a Bight

Strength: The figure 8 on a bight has the same
strength as the figure 8 follow through.
Visual clarity: The figure 8 on a bight has the
same visual clarity as the figure 8 follow through.
The carabiners that are necessarily used with
the knot are also easy to inspect.
Efficiency: Efficiency is the entire reason to
use the figure 8 on a bight. It can be tied once,
with the same carabiners attached and reused
for each climber. However, at the end of the
climb, the knot will have been loaded repeatedly,
sometimes heavily. As a result, it will be more dif-
ficult to untie.
The security and failure mechanisms of this
knot are the same as those of the figure 8 follow
through.
Ideal applications: Climbing in a group.
Climbing with novices. Climbing instruction
where time is limited. The attachment can be pre-
rigged in advance and eliminate knot teaching.

30 CLIMBING: KNOTS