Page 79 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"

The overhand
with a bight
closing a belay
system.

The overhand
with a bight
closing a rappel
system.
of “closing the system,” or managing both ends of the
rope, is both prudent and proven. A simple knot in the
end of the rope is one of the easiest and most timely
ways to accomplish this task. A knot that has bulk
enough to jam against a belay device or hitch, a knot
that is secure even getting tossed down from a cliff’s
edge, and a knot that is easy to recognize as it dangles
beneath a rappeler, or hides in a rope stack, is essential.
So the overhand with a bight is a satisfactory choice.

66 CLIMBING: KNOTS