Page 83 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"

up an otherwise secure stance on a ledge. However,
anytime there are potential shock loads on the hitch
or large loads applied to it, the girth hitch is not a
prudent option.

Backups for Rappels and Lowers:
The Autoblock
The autoblock consistently survives the application
heuristic in the most common climbing applications
because it is quick and easy to tie/untie, and it uses
up all the material (making a tidy and compact hitch).
Other classic friction hitches like the Prusik or the
kleimheist do not have these same characteristics. They
are cumbersome to tie and dress, they grip the rope
too tightly, and they are difficult to remove after heavy
loads. When lowering or rappelling, climbers only need
a friction that is as strong as their grip strength, so the

Clip the accessory cord loop into a locking carabiner
attached to the belay loop. Take care to position the
cord’s joining knot near the carabiner.
70 CLIMBING: KNOTS