Page 169 - Rappelling

friction hitch itself, as this can loosen the hitch and
cause it to slide down the rope.
Although it may sound complicated, and can
be a little awkward, the technique can be mas-
tered quickly with a bit of practice. To back up
the friction hitches, simply take both rope strands
together and tie a figure eight loop below the fric-
tion hitches, then clip the loop into your harness
belay loop with a locking carabiner. This is known
as “clipping in short” and should be done at regular
intervals (every 15 feet or so) when you’re ascend-
ing a long way.

Ascending a Single Fixed Rope

To ascend a single strand of fixed line, the same
methods just described apply, although you may
need an extra wrap with your friction hitch to add
a little more friction on a single rope. For example,
if ascending a doubled 10mm-diameter rope with
a prusik, two wraps of your prusik cord (i.e., four
strands) will probably suffice, where on a single cord
three wraps (six strands) is usually optimal.
If you have an ABD (like a Petzl Grigri) or an
autoblocking belay/rappel device (like the Petzl
Reverso or Black Diamond ATC Guide), there is a
very simple system you can use to ascend a single-
strand fixed rope. Clip the Grigri or ABD device
into your harness belay loop; if you’re using an
autoblocking belay device, clip it into your harness Ascending a single fixed line with a friction hitch
belay loop in the autoblocking mode. Tie a friction and a Grigri.
hitch (prusik or klemheist) on the rope above your
device and attach a 48-inch foot sling to the fric-
tion hitch. Slide the friction hitch up until your foot again until your knee is bent at a 90-degree angle,
sling is positioned at the height where your leg is then repeat the process. Tying a slip hitch for your
bent 90 degrees at the knee. Grab the rope above you sling foot helps your foot stay put. As a backup, clip in
with your non-brake hand and stand up in the sling, short every 15 feet or so by tying a figure eight loop
simultaneously pulling the rope through the device and clipping it into your harness belay loop with a
at your waist by pulling straight up on the brake locking carabiner. This is an easy and quick method
strand with your brake hand, then sit back and rest in for a short rope ascent, but if you plan on extensive
your harness on the locked-off device. When you’re fixed line ascending, then mechanical ascenders are
hanging in your harness, slide the friction hitch up the way to go.

158 RAPPELLING

Rappelling_i-174_3pp_CS55le.indd 158 7/24/13 10:18 AM