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Chapter 2. Geography & Past Settlements in the Musi River Basin
into graves for Islamic-period rulers and their consorts. (1368–1398). They occupied the old Chinese settlement
Bricks robbed from the remains of ancient monuments at ‘Old Kang’ on the north bank of the Musi River, not
formed the foundations of the motor road constructed far from the river’s sand islands of Gambora (Pulau
between the area of Sei Tatang and Bukit Seguntang Kemaro), Salanomo and Borang. From the Chinese
(Miksic 1985, Edwards McKinnon 1982). These sites admiral Zheng He’s sketch map at that time, ‘Old Kang’
were located next to the giant State fertilizer plant PT appeared to be close to the current port site of Boom
Pupuk Sriwijaya (PUSRI). During a visit to this site these Baru (Figure 5 & Figure 6).
authors saw labourers erecting a brick wall next to Candi Widodo (2005) stated that in the 16th century, Chinese from
Gede Ing Suro to separate it from the fertilizer plant. At ‘Old Kang’ moved to Gede Ing Suro, which at that time was a
that time they viewed a complex of earthen ramparts of Javanese and Palembang Muslim settlement. Maclaine Pont
substantial extent, bounded by a stream which led directly (1929) considered this eastern cluster of ancient Palembang sites,
to the Musi. Indonesian archaeologists are convinced especially the habitation sites at Air Bersih and Gede Ing Suro
that the site of the PUSRI factory was formerly a major (which have yielded only post-1300 ceramic material) was also
area of Sriwijayan activity (Mundardjito in Miksic 1985). a ‘Mojopahit Chinese city’ dating to the 13th and 14th century.
However, it appears that up until now there has been The Dutch moved to Gede Ing Suro in the mid-17th century.
no archaeological survey of the PUSRI site. The expatriate Chinese community in Palembang
Despite these disturbances, these authors concluded were ordered home as a result of a law passed in China
that Palembang at the time of Sriwijaya was comprised in 1402 which stated that overseas Chinese traders
of three geographic clusters: east, central and west. West who refused to return to China would be killed.
Palembang was separated from central Palembang by the Unfortunately, as reported by Nie (1997), the Chinese
Sekanak River and the Central Palembang from eastern community in Palembang refused to obey and were
Palembang by the Bengkuan River (Figure 5 consequently considered criminals. In fact, according
to Widodo (2005) many were criminals and were under
East Palembang Sites the leadership of the pirate Chen Zuyi from Guangzhou,
These sites were first reported on by Westenenk (1923 who had taken control of Palembang in 1377, following
and Wellan 1937). Four bronze statues were found at Air the decline of Majapahit influence in Palembang. In
Bersih. Three of these show close stylistic affinities with the 1407 the massive Ming Dynasty fleet, commanded by
art of Majapahit, an implied dating which is abundantly admiral Zheng He, which travelled through much of
confirmed by the shards of 14th and 15th century ceramics South East Asia, landed in Palembang and fought Chen
which litter the 50-hectare area immediately west and Zuyi. Some 5,000 Chinese were killed and their leader
south of Penyaringan. However, the fourth bronze was in captured and taken to Nanjing where he was executed.
a 9th–10th century style (Bronson and Wisseman 1976). The remaining Chinese were eventually permitted to
Hundreds of clay tablets were found inside stupikas stay in Palembang. By 1509, when the first Europeans
excavated at Sarangwati which is half a kilometre north appeared in Palembang, all Chinese had been assimilated
of Air Bersih. Similar artefacts were photographed by into the local community.
Manguin in 1987 from a site north of Gede Ing Suro not Miksic (2011) noted that settlement of the left bank
far from Sebokingking (Griffiths 2011). An incomplete (termed the hilir area in Palembang nomenclature) next
Avalokiteshara Buddha statue dated at 6th to 8th century to Pulau Kemaro is now occupied by a huge urea fertilizer
was excavated from this site. It is now in the Museum plant owned by PUSRI, the state fertilizer company. He
Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin II (Bronson and Wisseman quoted Mundardjito, Universitas Indonesia, who stated
1974, Kompas 17 March 2014). The 7th century Telaga that Indonesian archaeologists were convinced that the
Batu, discovered in Sabokingking, was the most famous site of the factory was formerly a major area of Sriwijayan
of the Sriwijayan inscriptions. activity and that it contained late-1st millennium ceramic
Miksic (2011) describes Candi Gede Ing Suro and shards. We have seen photographs of part of a private
Candi Penembahan as brick structures dating from the collection of ceramics removed from graves in the
14th century which have been converted into graves for PUSRI area, before it was established. These ceramics
Islamic-period rulers and their consorts. These two sites confirmed the view that PUSRI contained 14th and 15th
are close to the PUSRI site mentioned below. Gede Ing century, North Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese ceramics
Suro, near Air Bersih, was clearly a town or city in the in excellent condition.
mid-2nd millennium and is known to have produced Boom Baru is currently the largest port in Sumatra.
at least one statue dating to the 8th or 9th century. A 7th century inscription was found there (Bottenberg
The mostly glazed ceramic shards found there were 2010). Current collections of ceramics from this site
Chinese and northern Southeast Asia, clearly from the include Chinese Tang to Qing Dynasty wares as well as
16th and 17th century; others may be earlier (Bronson Middle East, North Vietnam, Funan and Thai ceramics,
and Wasseman 1985). According to Widodo (2005), a The nature of deep ceramic deposits beneath the Musi
community of several thousand Chinese immigrants River indicate that it has been a significant port at least
from Guangdong, Zhangzhou and Quanzhou (all ports from late-1st millennium until the present.
important in the world maritime ceramic trade) moved
to Palembang during the reign of the first Ming Emperor Central Palembang Sites
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