Page 122 - Bonhams NYC Chinese works of Art March 2019
P. 122

637
           A LADY’S INFORMAL KESI COURT ROBE
           Late Qing dynasty
           Finely woven with eight medallions containing flowering and fruiting
           double-gourd vines enclosed within linked foliate and ruyi borders,
           surrounded by butterflies and hydrangeas, the design repeated on the
           collar and wide sleeve bands, edged in black and gold brocade, with
           terrestrial diagram and lishui border at the hem.
           57in (144.7cm) long

           $12,000 - 18,000
           晚清 緙絲彩繪瓜蝶綉球紋夾袍

           The use of decorative roundels in Chinese textiles dates to the Tang
           dynasty (618-906). The motifs contained within--here repeated on
           the cuffs and collar--are dictated by the wearer’s position in society
           and also the occasion. Whereas dragons would be worn for the
           most formal imperial events and ceremony, floral imagery would be
           appropriate for domestic affairs. See John Vollmer, Clothed to Rule
           the Universe Ming and Qing Dynasty Textiles at The Art Institute of
           Chicago, p. 73.

           Similar examples are illustrated by Robert D. Jackson, Imperial Silks:
           Ch’ing Dynasty Textiles in the Minneapolis Institute of Arts, vol. I,
           Minneapolis, 2000, nos. 97, 98, 101, 102.




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