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ENCOUNTERS WITH                               INDIA:          LAND OF GOLD,

            SPICES,           AND        MATTERS SPIRITUAL



            Stuart  Gary  Welch





            India is rich — and vulnerable.  In the western  the sand is, they  fill  sacks with it and ride  Christianity  came to India when the Apostle
            world, from ancient times into the  eighteenth  away homeward with all speed.  For the ants  Saint Thomas journeyed overland to the Persian
                                                                                     .
            century, this has been the seductive and  inviting  no sooner  become aware of them . . by smell  Gulf, sailing the rest of the way to Malabar in
            legend, one more concerned with taste buds,  . . . than they give chase.              south  India on a Moorish  ship.  He established
            fine raiment, and full purses than with  mind or  During the fourth century B.C., Alexander  churches there and in Sind, always maintaining
            spirit.  It grew over many centuries  from a  the Great, inspired by legends of India's wealth  contact with the Syrian Church in Aleppo.
            hotchpotch  of soldiers' and sailors' yarns  and  and curious about its anomalous culture, led his  Even King Alfred  of England (843-899) sup-
            travelers' and merchants' dreams, most of which  armies across the known world as far as the  ported Indian missions,  to fulfill  a vow made
            must be sifted  for hard facts.  Herodotus,  writ-  Beas River. But the heat and distance were so  before one of his battles.  After winning, true to
            ing between 450 and 430 B.C., is our  earliest  great that his armies refused to go farther.  He  his word he sent Bishop Sigelm of Shireburn  to
            source. The first of his piquant anecdotes  tells  withdrew, leaving behind governors who estab-  south India, whence — according to William of
            of Indian hounds,  of which the  Great King of  lished long-lasting, eventually independent prov-  Malmesbury  (d. 1143) — he brought  back  "many
            Babylon (Assyria) owned so many that  their  inces, well known to today's museum  visitors  brilliant and exotic gems, and aromatic juices,
            maintenance drained all of the taxes from  four  from their sculptures in which classical natural-  in which the country abounds." Many Francis-
            large villages.  Another  of his claims is as fresh  ism blends with indigenous inner vision. Al-  cans were sent to India during the  first  half of
            as today's news: in the sixth century  B.C.  there  though  Alexander's "conquest," which  fostered  the fourteenth century. John of Monte  Corvino
            were more Indians "than any other people   international  trade, was celebrated by western  served in southern  India before becoming arch-
            known to us." Furthering the legend of wealth  historians,  Indian sources scarcely mention  it.  bishop of  Peking. Odoric of Pordenone traveled
            he wrote that Persia's  north  Indian  provinces  In 115 B.C., King Ptolemy  m Euergetes sent  by land from Ormuz to Tana in Salsette,  after
            paid the empire's  highest  tribute,  three hun-  Eudoxus of Cyzicus to India. Guided by an  which he sailed to Polumbum  (Quilon),  Cey-
            dred and sixty talents  of gold dust.  His infor-  Indian whose life he had saved during a ship-  lon, and to the Coromandel coast. A French
            mation  slithers  between the humdrum  and the  wreck, he sailed as far as the Malabar coast,  monk, Jordanus, urged the establishment of
            fantastic, touching on Indians and their ways  where he acquired a wealth of precious stones  missions at Poroco (Broach) and Supra (Surat),
            before revealing the surprising source of all  and spices before returning home.  Word spread;  although he was stationed  as Bishop at  Polum-
            that gold:                                 trade burgeoned;  and greed fanned  investiga-  bum (Quilon), the largest trading center near
              There are many Indian nations;  and they do  tions of the east and how to go there. Alexan-  the tip of the peninsula.
              not all speak one language,  some are  nomads;  drian geographers such as Eratosthenes in the  Compilers of the  Catalan Atlas of 1375  (cat.
              . . . some live in the marshes beside the  river  third century  B.C. separated truth  from  fiction  i) gathered and summarized information  from
              and eat raw fish . . . other Indians .. to the  and drew charts that included India. Although  ecclesiastical travelers as well as from  Marco
                                         .
              east. . . are nomads and eat raw flesh.  It  mere fragments of these are known, they  seem  Polo and others.  It is the earliest extant map to
              is ...  a custom  . . . that if one of their  folk is  to have been more accurate than those prepared  show India as a peninsula. Most of Asia,  how-
              sick, he is killed by his nearest  kinsmen,  who  a century  later by Claudius Ptolemy,  whose  ever, was still lumped together as "the  Indies,"
              say that as he is wasted with  sickness his  flesh  maps, preserved in Byzantium, reached western  subdivided into India within and India beyond
              is ...  spoiled . . . ; but  [the others]  not  agree-  Europe in the fifteenth  century and profoundly  the Ganges, India Extrema or Superior, Greater
                                                       influenced cartography there (see cats. 126,
              ing, kill and eat him.  . . . On the other hand,  127).                             India, Middle India, and Lesser India. Accord-
              there are Indians who will kill no living                                           ing to Marco Polo, Abyssinia was in Middle
              thing, who sow no seed nor are accustomed  Indian trade flourished under the Romans,  India, while Greater India reached from Malabar
              to have houses, and they  are grass eaters . . .  who established stations along the west coast  to Kech-Makran (on the coast of Iran), and  the
                                                       for buying
                                                                spices and textiles.
            The gold, we are told, is found in the  desert  however, were of little interest Western  goods,  eight major kingdoms of Lesser India extended
                                                                                                  from
                                                                                                       Chamba (in South Vietnam) to Motupalli.
                                                                                 to Indians, who
            near the city of Caspatyrus,  where giant  ants,  demanded gold and silver coin. A worryingly  Knowledge of India proliferated, especially
            "somewhat  smaller than dogs but bigger than  uneven balance of trade brought complaints  after Byzantine Constantinople  fell to the Otto-
            foxes," in burrowing into the ground bring up  from  Pliny in the Senate.  Increasing commerce  man Turks in 1453. During this era of travel,
            sand mixed with gold:
                                                       led to first-hand knowledge of India, such as  Hindu yogis were also on the road,  following
              It is in search of this sand that the  Indians  that compiled by the anonymous Greek or  quite different  quests. A painting from Turcoman
              make journeys into the desert.  Each man has  Greek-speaking Egyptian trader or  ship-master  Tabriz, now in Istanbul, depicts them accurately,
              a team of three camels . . . [with which  he  who, between 95 and 130 A.D., wrote The  apparently from  life, in the company of Muslim
                                .
              goes] to fetch the gold . . at the hottest time,  Periplus  of  the  Erythraean  Sea, an invaluable  holy  men at a startlingly  ecumenical shrine  the
              for then . . . the ants disappear into the ground  source of information on sea routes and trade  walls of which are adorned with Christian  im-
              . . . When  the Indians reach the place where  goods.                               agery. A few decades after this miniature was

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