Page 149 - Barbara Merry - The Splicing Handbook

and abrasions, and an apron protects

your clothing and chest.

To get the most life out of your wire, use the correct hardware (your assembly
is only as strong as its weakest link) and keep wires free of salt by dousing with
fresh water after the day’s sailing. Replace any service that comes apart or
unwrapped. (For more on the importance of service to the life of wire see the
chapter on Lizards, page 175.)

Splicing will improve both the longevity and strength of your wire. However,
a correctly placed and pressed swage is acceptable. Some splices are not meant
to carry a load for long—don’t use the Tugboat Splice (also known as a Flemish
Eye or Molly Hogan; see page 160) in situations that call for a permanent splice.

WORKING WITH WIRE

In addition to being dangerous (see safety precautions opposite), working with
wire can be difficult. Heavy wires are challenging to work with—an assistant is
a great help. Wire can spring and jump when unwound from a coil, so proceed
with caution. Set up your work area so there is plenty of clearance around the
vise—especially behind you—so the wire can run out straight and true. Kinks in
any kind of wire can’t be undone and permanently diminish the wire strength.

Tools and Materials for Working with Wire

Many of the tools used for wire splicing are also used in fiber and rope splicing.
Shown here are three setups for different rigging jobs, ranging from a traditional
rigging made with seizings of pine tar to materials used on a modern yacht rig.
In addition to safety glasses and gloves (leather or robust neoprene), you’ll need
a vise, wire cutters, a side cutter (which can be used instead of nippers), a steel
marlinspike (a stout screwdriver might do in a pinch), a wrench, pliers, and, if
doing a more traditional rigging job, materials for seizings (including a serving
tool).