Page 79 - Geoffrey Budworth, Jason Dalton "The Little Book of Incredibly Useful Knots"

Bowline on a bight

This knot creates two fixed loops in the end of a line. It gives more strength and security than a

single bowline, and is used by some climbers as a tie-in point on a rope.

Begin with a large bight at the end of a rope. Make a loop above the bight, with the standing line
coming from the bottom of the loop (1). Pass the free end of the bight up through the loop (2). Pass
the free loop around the entire knot (3), then pull down on the double loop (4).