Page 94 - Demo

92
EN Innovation and simplicity are the two approaches to your work. It’s perhaps obvious that these two words go together – or is it a contra- diction? Yet the marriage of the two is the key to your work. How have you managed to constantly maintain this combination?
I admit, it’s not easy. At 33, I’m no longer looking for the next new thing, but rather, I’m looking for a structure that I can intensify and perpetuate. I prefer to concentrate on the taste and the construction of my desserts, rather than their beauty itself. Today, the question is about knowing how to have longevity and assert your style. I’ve created my style. So now, I want to take my time to intensify flavours, and it’s something I started to push six years ago when I became head pâtissier. I no longer want to
use pointless decoration, I simply want to get down to basics, without forgetting that my dessert must ama- ze and be memorable. For me, the key to success is when the customer understands and likes what they’re tasting, and that experience creates a memory. They come back because it’s good, not because it’s beautiful.
Putting the quality and the impor- tance of the basic ingredients to the forefront is a major trend when it comes to savoury gastronomy, but less so in patisserie. Looking back, do you feel like you’ve taken a risk by pushing the boundaries of patisserie?
Without wanting to sound preten- tious, lots of major pâtissiers from the world over are reinventing tarts very simply just like I do: no coating, no
icing sugar, no decoration. I try and respect what nature has given me. My tarts are already characterised by their simplicity, and that’s something I hope to integrate more and more with my fruits desserts. For example, in my new Noisette dessert, I no longer use gold powder on the inside. I’ve gone for 100% hazelnut, with the aim of being as natural as possible. Earlier in my career, when I worked at Fauchon, my role was to test all raw materials. I did that for four years. For example, when I’d receive all the cream deliveries, I would put three different types in the mixer and I’d monitor their whipped consistency, how long they’d last in the freezer or the fridge... Let’s just sayIwaslikeachemistinalab,andI remained that way at Le Meurice. I’ll never stop creating, or being on the search for the best.
La Pâtisserie Meurice
par Cédric Grolet
6 Rue de Castiglione, 75001 Paris