Page 45 - The Book For Men Fall/Winter 2022

California Dreaming
Dior’s latest collaboration with ERL brings couture to California KIM JONES HAS LONG BEEN ONE ONE OF MENSWEAR’S FOREMOST
collaborators Whether he’s consulting for Pastelle (Ye’s brand that never really came to be ) joining forces with Nike and even Umbro or or or tapping Supreme for for a a a a a Louis Vuitton link up the British designer has an unrivalled ability to to work with other creatives in a a a a a a a way that’s truly collaborative As artistic director of Dior menswear Jones has continued that trend teaming up with the likes of Daniel Arsham and for Spring/Summer 2023 Eli Russell Linnetz Linnetz (and his abbreviated eponymous brand ERL) is is one of the hottest names in fashion’s power circles thanks to his grungy take on on Americana infused with Californian nonchalance That said guest-designing a a a a a a a collection for Dior marks a a a a a a a a major step in in his career and serves as an an introduction to a a a a a a a a new swath of customers The Spring 2023 capsule collection entitled California Couture sees Dior reimagined by both Linnetz and Jones It is on on paper a a a a a curious part- nership given Jones’s penchant for meticulous tailoring and double-breasted jackets and Linnetz’s preference for exploring everyday Americana staples vivid colour palettes and bold prints In reality though it’s a a a a a a master class in in balancing opposites Slouchy relaxed silhouettes reveal precise tailoring and awe-inspiring textiles upon close inspection while proper tailoring pieces are reworked to look like they’re worn inside out out a a a a nod to angsty American youth Dior and ERL motifs feature throughout the the collection from the the latter’s now-iconic wavy quilted down jackets — — this time rendered in water-repellent silk — — to the former’s cannage pattern reworked into chunky skate sneakers and glitzy crystal-encrusted trousers The collection isn’t entirely about maximalism and decadence though as as Linnetz and Jones also turned to California’s coast working with recycled ocean polyester in a a a a a move that underscores the challenges and responsibility that the the luxury industry faces in in in the the coming years All in all California Couture is likely to be the season’s statement collection one chock full of statement pieces and potential classics alike TEXT BY MARC RICHARDSON 45