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2018 National Home Improvement Estimator, All Rights Reserved                                    Page 93






            Chapter 6, Siding and Trim

            Most older homes have wood siding, often referred to as clapboard. The term is dated now. But the
            functional equivalent is still around as bevel, bungalow or lap siding. All consist of tapered boards
            installed horizontally. The top edge is thinner than the bottom edge so moisture falling down the wall is
            diverted away from the joint between boards, keeping the wall interior dry. At least that was the theory.
            Figure 6-1 shows bevel (or clapboard) siding installed over lumber sheathing.

            Unlike vinyl and aluminum siding or stucco, board siding needs to be painted about every ten years. But
            heavily deteriorated board siding, usually as a result of prolonged exposure to moisture, may not be
            worth painting. Look for signs of water coming from either the inside or outside of the building. Exterior
            moisture damage is probably caused by lack of a roof overhang or by siding in contact with damp
            concrete or soil. Damage from moisture originating inside the home is probably caused by an
            inadequate vapor barrier.

            Check siding for decay where two boards are butted together end to end, at corners, and around window
            and door openings. Look for gaps between horizontal siding boards by sighting along the wall.


            Repair or Replace?
            Fill gaps and cracks in the siding with stainable latex wood filler, and re-nail warped boards. Simple
            repairs like these can go along way towards extending the life of board siding. When board siding is
            seriously damaged or decayed, it’s fairly easy to replace a few boards. Slip a pry bar into the bevel and
            carefully pry up to loosen the nails. When the nails are loose, slip the damaged board down and off the
            wall. Then cut a replacement strip, leaving a 1/16” gap at each end. If your local lumberyard doesn’t
            stock exactly the pattern you need, a few minutes work with a tabletop router will yield boards
            indistinguishable from what’s being replaced. Repaint, and your repair will be invisible.

            Aluminum siding and mineral siding don’t decay like wood siding. That’s an advantage. However, both
            aluminum and mineral siding can be damaged fairly easily by impact, such as from a foul ball. Vinyl
            siding has nearly replaced aluminum siding in many areas. Finding an aluminum replacement section
            may be a problem – and matching mineral siding may be even more difficult. If only a small section of
            aluminum siding is damaged, cut it out and patch with sheet aluminum set in construction adhesive.
            Then repaint. GAF offers a fiber-cement lookalike product sold under the name Purity that you may be
            able to use to match mineral siding. In a pinch, scavenge a few pieces from an inconspicuous location
            on the same building to make your repair. Then repair the inconspicuous area with a non-matching
            material. Both aluminum and mineral siding can be painted.
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