Page 119 - 2018 National Home Improvement

2018 National Home Improvement Estimator, All Rights Reserved Page 96

Vinyl Siding
Vinyl siding is by far the most popular siding in use today. It’s relatively inexpensive, and comes in a
wide variety of styles and colors. Vinyl siding is maintenance-free and resistant to most damage. It’s
also easy to install. With a little care, your first installation will look great. You can install vinyl siding
directly over horizontal board siding if the wood surface is firm and flat. Or, even better, install fanfold
polystyrene insulating board over the wood siding first. That provides extra insulation and assures a
smooth, even surface over which to install the vinyl siding. Remove and replace any deteriorated boards.
Re-nail loose boards. If the existing siding is irregular, install furring strips so the new siding is
supported by a flush surface. Then re-caulk around doors and windows and renew the window flashing, if
needed.

Vinyl siding can be installed over stucco. But first install 1” x 3” furring secured to the studs. Then install
the siding, driving either ring-shank nails or screws into the furring. Nails or screws driven into the
stucco alone will not secure the siding.

Follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions. But note that all vinyl siding expands and contracts
with heat and cold, as much as 1/2” over the length of a 12’6” panel. If nails or screws are driven tight
against the nailing slot, the panel will buckle noticeably in warm weather. Use aluminum, galvanized
steel or other corrosion-resistant nails or screws and leave 1/32” (the thickness of a dime) clearance
between the head and the vinyl. Drive fasteners through the center of the nailing slot in the hem so
horizontal siding can slide 1/2” left and right after installation. Drive a fastener every 16” on horizontal
panels, every 12” on vertical panels and every 8” to 10” on accessories such as J-channel and corner
posts.

Adjacent vinyl panels lock together to form a snug joint. Where panel ends meet, overlap the ends by
about 1”. Avoid end overlap near doors or windows where regular use is likely to put stress on the joint.

All vinyl siding manufacturers offer trim pieces designed for use with their siding materials. These
include starter strip, drip cap, J-channel, molding, corner posts and soffits. Anything projecting from the
wall, such as a doorbell, a faucet or a porch light, should be surrounded by a vinyl mounting block. The
block forms a collar that surrounds the siding penetration. Setting a mounting block is much easier and
neater than cutting a hole in a full-length vinyl siding panel. Mounting blocks also offer better protection
from the elements.

The trickiest part of any vinyl siding job is dealing with existing windows and doors. Most new windows
are designed with vinyl siding in mind. They're contoured so that vinyl siding will trim out neatly around
them. Older existing windows, however, are a serious problem. If you just trim around the window frame,
you'll leave exposed wood, which will need to be painted. Most siding installers will cover the existing
window frames with aluminum, which needs to be custom-bent on-site using an aluminum brake. This is
very time consuming. Also, the new siding will stand out further from the house than the existing siding,
causing the windows to be slightly recessed. This alters the look of the house, which the homeowner
may not like. In that case, you’ll need to build out the window frames to restore the original depth.